Earlier in 2021, Japan’s Citizen made big waves in the watch industry space by announcing a slew of new mechanical watches, including new automatic mechanical movements. Whereas the Citizen Group’s Miyota motion manufacturing unit has been repeatedly making quartz and mechanical actions for a while, it has been over a decade since Citizen, as a model, launched a brand new mechanical motion. The 2021 Citizen information about mechanical watches began with the announcement of more expensive Citizen Calibre 0200, which later resulted within the debut of the brand new Citizen Collection eight watches which might be each extra reasonably priced and function a relaunch for the legacy Collection eight product household.
Please reference the above-linked article for extra details about the bigger Citizen Collection eight watch assortment, which incorporates 830, 831, and 870 Collection fashions. This assessment will concentrate on Citizen Collection eight 870 reference NA1004-87E. This can be a top-level Collection eight watch that has a sister mannequin often called the NA1000-88A, which differs solely in that it has a silver-colored (versus black) dial. These are at present the costliest Collection eight items, however they’re nonetheless roughly one-third the worth of the fancier Citizen Calibre zero200 fashions. Since I’ve now had an opportunity to expertise each fashions, I’ll rapidly reply the query of whether or not the Calibre zero200 (which has a completely totally different sort of mechanical motion) is value the additional cash?
From a wristwatch fanatic’s perspective, sure. That mentioned, it’s a bit odd for Citizen to return out with two excellent merchandise on the similar time, in the identical product class, even when, to Citizen, these are two very several types of merchandise. The Calibre zero200 and the Collection eight are each modern-looking dressy watches with a recent, barely sporty twist to them. The Collection eight is the extra trendy of the 2 in relation to design, whereas the Calibre zero200 is richer with extra particulars, higher ending, and elements produced with smaller tolerances.
The Calibre zero200 is for well-funded watch collectors who need to deal with what Citizen has already introduced will probably be restricted manufacturing. It’s a Grand Seiko competitor, through-and-through, and will probably be naturally unique, in addition to coveted. Citizen did a wonderful job with it in most respects, and I’ll talk about it extra in a separate assessment. For functions of the Collection eight, Citizen created a high-end, albeit extra mainstream, costume/enterprise watch that’s exceptional as a result of it actually doesn’t attempt to be a Euro-style watch. The Collection eight is fully Japanese in its design, manufacture, and inspiration.
Whereas the 40mm-wide metal case is dressy in general profile and persona, its form is wealthy with trendy traces and sharp angles. The distinctive bezel development is supposed to eschew perceptions of what a costume watch can seem like, and the usage of a brand new mechanical motion is a press release to the world that Citizen now has one thing that’s nearly as good as what comes from Switzerland, not simply similar-looking. Citizen (like Seiko) is presenting itself as an genuine horizontal competitor to equal European manufacturers. This can be a basic (and doubtless broadly welcomed) shift in technique from what was “cheaper than the Swiss, however related in sensation and superior in reliability.”
The 100-meter water resistant case is on the beefy aspect, nevertheless it goes with the theme and remains to be snug on the wrist as a costume watch. As soon as once more, it’s 40mm-wide, 10.9mm-thick, and has a lug-to-lug distance of about 48mm. Over the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with AR-coating on the within, and the caseback is strong (sadly, there’s no view to the motion). Going again to the sapphire crystal, I discovered that it collected fingerprints relatively simply. Since Citizen is a grasp of fabric coatings, I guess a finger grease-resistant sapphire crystal coating can be actually appreciated by fanatics.
The Collection eight 870 comes paired with a handsome-looking matching metal bracelet that has simply of contact of taper to it. The flat, brushed H-style hyperlink design works however just isn’t as authentic because the Collection eight 870 case with its fascinating aspect profile and two-piece bezel. The bracelet does, nonetheless, shut with a comparatively flush push-button deployant clasp. Extra so, I do know that Citizen actually needed to maintain it stylish with the design, however I did discover the spartan caseback design a bit lackluster. I recognize that Citizen may need to hold exhibition home windows for particular fashions solely (just like the Calibre zero200), however I feel customers would love some visible hints as to what the Citizen designers had in thoughts when designing the 870 watch’s case.
The Collection eight 870 dial is a masterful execution of what many individuals consider once they contemplate well-done Japanese wristwatch dials. It’s basic however has trendy parts, the least of that are within the design of the fingers and hour markers. The dial is deliberately minimalized, with a spotlight not on additional design parts however relatively on making every of the present options on the dial as good to take a look at as doable. This contains a wonderful shiny end for the face, and the good distinction you get with the finely brushed and polished utilized hour markers. The dial can also be totally painted with luminant, however in a method that doesn’t take away its enchantment as a sublime formal timepiece.
The dial encompasses a window for the date, with a body that matches the ending of the hour markers. The dial can also be a bit unusual for having the precise title of the watch assortment on it. One other fascinating design aspect is how the second hand is two-tone. The counterweight is black to distinction the brushed metal tone of nearly all of the hand. It makes for an fascinating and very refined impact.
Contained in the 870 watch is the in-house-made Citizen caliber zero950 automated motion that’s truly being launched on this look ahead to the primary time. The motion is simply four.1mm-thick and might be considerably related in structure to the Miyota 9000 motion sequence, although I don’t suppose they’re the identical motion in any respect. For one factor, the Calibre zero950 has 50 hours of energy reserve and operates at 4Hz. Winding it’s a bit smoother than an ETA motion, and the general operation is predictably refined. Citizen claims a -5/+10 seconds per day timing fee efficiency expectation for the Calibre zero950. These marketed numbers are sometimes on the more serious aspect of precise efficiency, whereas these numbers are much more correct when it comes to efficiency expectations with most of the different Miyota actions. The tech specs are higher for the Calibre zero200 motion, however the zero950 is nothing to scoff at — and bests a whole lot of the competitors at this value level. I simply want a few of it was seen since wearers can solely think about what it appears like (the motion does have ornament on it, by the way in which). Lastly, Citizen claims the caliber zero950 “offers enhanced magnetic resistance,” implying that there’s a formidable stage of magnetic resistance within the motion with out the necessity for particular shielding.
With the Collection eight 870 watch assortment, Citizen makes a daring assertion to the remainder of the watch business, and a compelling worth proposition to customers. On the one hand, the title to beat proper now in high-end Japanese watches in Grand Seiko. Citizen has all of the model may and heritage to have an acceptable competitor, and it’s transferring in that route. The Calibre zero200 tries to match Grand Seiko toe-to-toe, whereas the Collection eight is a extra mainstream response to high-end Seiko given the appreciably cheaper price level. The Collection eight is basically meant to compete with high-end Seiko costume watches however finally ends up providing one thing nearer to a “Grand Citizen” expertise (versus simply being a flowery go well with watch).
Citizen has tried to enter this value class for years — particularly in the US — with quite a few actually cool merchandise ported over from Japan. Sadly, many gadgets, such because the Citizen Campanola within the Citizen Signature assortment, by no means actually took off an excessive amount of outdoors Japan. With the Collection eight, Citizen tries one thing on this value class by providing a mechanical watch. Most of its earlier makes an attempt had been with high-end quartz watches. Whereas high-end quartz can have its mainstream heyday, Citizen was, sadly, a bit forward of the instances with lots of its high-end quartz watch choices once they initially debuted. For now, a lot of the normal watch group remains to be enamored with all issues “mechanical.”
So right here it’s, the proudly Japanese and totally modern go-anywhere costume watch from Citizen within the type of the Collection eight. Properly-funded collectors will be capable to decide up the Calibre zero200, however for many individuals, that a lot pricier mannequin will probably be overkill. The Collection eight 870 gives a standard high-end Japanese watch expertise designed for a world market and at a fair-feeling value. Citizen can definitely get extra thrilling with colours and ornament sooner or later, however as quickly as I wore the Collection eight 870 on my wrist for the primary time, I instantly knew this product household must be in Citizen’s assortment for fairly some time. Value for the Citizen Collection eight 870 reference NA1004-87E watch is $2,000 USD. Learn more at the Citizen watches website here.
>Mannequin: Collection eight 870 reference NA1004-87E
>Value: $2,000 USD
>Measurement: 40mm-wide, 10.1mm-thick, and ~48mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally put on it: Superb in a enterprise setting or skilled social setting. Simple to get pleasure from all-rounder watch that unpretentiously suits in most locations.
>Pal we’d advocate it to first: Euro-skeptic serious about their first good watch. Humble design lover who desires a severely first rate timepiece that doesn’t have a reputation individuals will decide them for carrying.
>Greatest attribute of watch: Case could be very enticing. Dial is legible and high-quality trying. Snug to put on on the wrist. High quality deployant clasp. Compelling efficiency from new automated motion.
>Worst attribute of watch: Crystal attracts smudges; caseback is a bit plain.