This watch grew on me over time, however for some cause I can’t consider an honest nickname for it. I problem you, expensive reader, to think about a correct title for this Armand Nicolet J09-Three GMT timepiece, with its even sexier “A663AAA-BU-MA4660A” reference quantity. That simply rolls off the tongue. The girls and boys at Armand Nicolet have a humorousness, a minimum of. Every new assortment I view from the model looks like a mixture of one thing we very a lot know with one thing we’ve by no means seen earlier than, a dedication I love.
The J09-Three assortment is definitely simply the title of this case type; the GMT is only one subfamily. As of writing, throughout the Armand J09-Three household, there are 36 totally different references. This contains three motion households, which embrace a Swiss Made computerized three-hand with date motion, GMT (as reviewed), and a mechanical chronograph. The three-hand mannequin is essentially the most conservative, from afar, and the chronograph might be the sportiest of the J09-Three items. The GMT feels essentially the most mature and succesful as a basic all-purpose watch. That’s precisely what the J09-Three GMT aspires to be, a very nice all-purpose around-town watch that feels mature and designer-ish however with out overly calling an excessive amount of consideration to itself. That is very a lot an extension of what we see in lots of watches crafted by Italian designers (in all probability, as a gaggle, nonetheless the most effective assortment of inventive minds within the watch area in current occasions).
The J09-Three — particularly on the bracelet — very a lot desires to be Armand Nicolet’s specific response to the Gerald Genta design development, which is at present scorching proper now. The model has answered the decision to “combine a bracelet with the case in a metal materials watch.” The outcome isn’t half-bad, particularly for the worth. The case wears bigger than it’s given the cushion form of the case with its accordingly large lugs. The case is 41mm-wide however wears like a 44, visually. The taper on the bracelet is somewhat dramatic. It goes from 24mm all the way down to 18mm-wide on the deployant clasp. That is a minimum of double or extra what most different bracelets taper on watches nowadays.
The case is 12mm-thick (waterproof to 50 meters) and has a somewhat lengthy 50mm lug-to-lug distance. The bracelet additionally doesn’t instantly drop down, so I feel it’s secure to say that the J09-Three GMT is finest for medium- to large-size wrists. It’s only a bit too lengthy for the anatomy of my wrist, however I nonetheless like the feel and appear, total. On a barely bigger wrist, with a swimsuit or one thing formal, I feel this is able to show a really good-looking, masculine design.
The bezel does its finest to channel the Nautilus / Royal Oak (Genta designs) vibe, if it had been cushion-shaped. It sorta works. What folks must recall is that Genta’s shapes are extraordinarily depending on a nuanced set of proportions to work, visually. When others attempt to differ the geometry of the design, that may generally look awkward, even when mathematically symmetrical.
The ending on the J09-Three GMT’s metal case and bracelet is basically good. There’s a jewelry-like stage of shine and high quality polish that you just don’t usually see on watches at this value stage. I feel Armand Nicolet’s mixing of element machining and conventional sharpening lends itself to a fantastic have a look at a good price.
Talking of ornament, the model usually makes use of actions which can be adorned, and that’s true right here with the J09-Three GMT. The motion used contained in the watch is the Swiss Made Sellita SW330, which is an analog to the ETA 2892 computerized working at 4Hz with two days of energy reserve. This GMT-style motion provides the time and date together with a 24 hour GMT hand to remind you in regards to the time in one other time zone. The middle of the dial has a two-tone ring, a mode generally used for the bezels on different GMT watches, although with the grey blended with metallic blue combo right here, the distinction in hue may be difficult in some mild circumstances.
The dial design of the J09-Three GMT is attention-grabbing. The dial itself has quite a lot of uncommon shapes, and there may be clear effort towards making the arms and hour markers unique and efficient. The dial is legible, with a great sense of distinction between the arms and markers towards the face. The arms are tipped with little forks that remind me of quartz oscillator crystals in quartz movement-based watches — which is ironic on condition that the J09-Three GMT is a mechanical watch. Despite the fact that I discover the dial to be spirited, I additionally suppose it’s a bit aggressive in its brutalist design. The J09-Three GMT could be very a lot a younger man’s watch. It shows the endurance and enthusiasm of youth. By the point we become old, our watches are likely to mirror our sense of cultured style and diplomacy.
Armand Nicolet went with an attention-grabbing bracelet alternative for the J09-Three GMT. The watch can also be out there on a leather-based strap for individuals who desire the design that means. The look of the bracelets jogs my memory of Bell & Ross watches from 20 years in the past (not a foul factor), which appeared to give attention to not having the ability to see your pores and skin by way of gaps within the hyperlinks. Thus, they targeted on elaborate designs with hyperlinks that relied on shut tolerances to correctly match collectively. The J09-Three GMT isn’t as strict in terms of tolerances, but it surely however has a satisfying and easy sporting impact on the wrist. Let me additionally word the push-button fold-over deployant clasp that makes use of an attention-grabbing development trick to be compact in measurement and likewise wearable. On the wrist, the J09-Three GMT is basically fairly comfy, however you’ll want to be certain that the strap or bracelet is sized effectively given top-heavy design of the composition.
The J09-Three as a group fits the Armand Nicolet model very well. They do different good watches however that is among the many most character-rich (it might be higher with a group title to go together with it) that I additionally suppose mainstream audiences may take pleasure in on their wrist. Value for the Armand Nicolet J09-Three GMT reference A663AAA-BU-MA4660A is 2,550 Swiss Francs.
>Model: Armand Nicolet
>Mannequin: J09-Three GMT (reference A663AAA-BU-MA4660A as examined)
>Value: 2,550 Swiss Francs
>Measurement: 41mm-wide, 12mm-thick, and ~50mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a bold-speaking workplace or enterprise watch.
>Good friend we’d advocate it to first: An acceptable wrist companion for a Mediterranean-minded man who speaks loudly together with his arms.
>Greatest attribute of watch: Enjoyable sporting expertise with quite a lot of character in a watch with versatile enchantment. Good worth for properly completed case.
>Worst attribute of watch: Largish proportions are distinctive however gained’t enchantment to everybody. Dial design is attention-grabbing however lacks a cohesive theme.