In these Covid-stricken occasions, there may be nothing fairly like chatting with pals. As such, we bought collectively (just about) to share our favourite Seiko watches. The query is, what would our writers spend their very own cash on? I posed the query with no finances restrictions. The alternatives may both be new or classic — something goes. Our editors bought one selection and one selection solely. Let’s discover out what they picked…
Clearly, the very first thing to ask your self is the place you stand on the brand new vs. classic divide? Seiko is a model with an excessive amount of historical past, making a deep dive into the model’s historical past an awesome journey. You’ll rapidly study that a variety of right now’s assortment is impressed by the classics of the previous. That’s one thing that Seiko is well-known for, truly. And with the 140th 12 months of existence being celebrated this 12 months, there may be fairly a bit to select from, which makes for an much more fascinating dialogue.
Mike’s decide — Seiko 6215-7000
It’s solely honest to have our resident Seiko knowledgeable make the primary decide. Through the years, Mike lined all kinds of latest and classic Seiko items. And it comes as no shock that Mike truly selected a classic Seiko as his favourite decide. The Seiko 6215-7000 is the primary skilled Seiko diver after introducing the 62MAS in 1965 for leisure diving. In 1967 the model launched the 6215-7000 that will significantly up Seiko’s recreation for diving watches.
For me, if I may solely have one Seiko (which might additionally require some financial savings), it could be the 6215-7000. As the primary 300-meter diver from the model, it set the stage for nearly each important diver from the model and that continues on via right now.
What’s particular concerning the 6215-7000 is that whereas its specs and appears had been spectacular again in 1967, they’re nonetheless very a lot as much as right now’s requirements. And that’s 54 years after its introduction! As Mike explained in his review, this watch is a 43.5mm monobloc beast with precisely the correct amount of aptitude with its black dial with gold detailing, together with the palms. Functionally it’s water resistant all the way down to 300 meters, and you will see the 35-jewel Caliber 6215 beating away beneath the hood. I had the pleasure of carrying Mike’s 6215-7000, and it’s a particular feeling realizing this watch connects to so a lot of right now’s Seiko divers.
Robert-Jan’s decide — Seiko Prospex SLA021J1
One of many direct descendants of Mike’s 6215-7000 is Robert-Jan’s decide. The Seiko Prospex SLA021J1 is understood to many Seiko fanatics because the Marinemaster 300. Though it’s not referred to as that formally anymore, most watch aficionados instantly what watch you’re referring to. At €three,200, that is the costliest common manufacturing mannequin within the Seiko Prospex assortment. However what you get for it in return beats a lot of its rivals that value double that quantity.
The SLA021J1 (previously referred to as Marinemaster 300) is the proper first Seiko because it oozes Grand Seiko high quality (it borrows a variety of issues Grand Seiko, such because the 9S motion and Zaratsu sharpening; it’s even assembled in the identical manufacture) at a worth under a Seamaster 300M or perhaps a Tudor Black Bay.
As Robert-Jan explains in his review, each element oozes a supreme degree of high quality identified to be the usual for Grand Seiko. From the 44.3mm monobloc case to the 8L35 motion to the Zaratsu sharpening end to the unbelievable bracelet. Each single element is top-notch. Certain, that is Seiko’s most costly providing relating to its common divers. However what you get in return has the ability not solely to be your first but additionally the one luxurious watch you ever want.
Ben’s decide — Seiko Prospex SPB185J1
Ben picked one of the talked-about new releases from final 12 months. Fairly just a few of the Fratello crew truly love this launch, together with me. What makes this a winner is its 42mm dimension. Seiko has been identified to provide quite massive and chunky diving watches for years. And the SPB185 is a welcome step away from the common 44–45mm case dimension for Seiko divers. And at €1,250, that is the proper Seiko Prospex mannequin for a lot of fanatics.
The SPB185 was an absolute knockout that caught me off-guard. A standard handset quite than a broad hour-hand, sapphire crystal, 42mm×12.5mm sizing, the automated 6R35 motion, and super-hard coating. Combine all that with a brutalist metal bezel and practical bracelet and it’s the excellent all-rounder for €1,250. Give me a Pepsi bezel model and I’m bought.
On high of that, the SPB185J1 additionally improved on fairly just a few design particulars when in comparison with its predecessor. Each watches had been, quite confusingly, known as the “fashionable re-interpretation of the Seiko 1968 Computerized Diver.” For as soon as, the Seiko mannequin references make issues clear quite than complicated. All jokes apart, this new SPB185 was launched in November of final 12 months and created fairly the thrill on Fratello. Not solely among the many editors but additionally with you as our readers, as Rob’s review was one in all our most-read articles from final 12 months.
Balazs’ decide — Seiko 6139 Pogue Chronograph
Our classic chronograph maestro Balazs picked one of the iconic Seiko chronographs in historical past. The Seiko Pogue has develop into an icon for its legendary caliber 6139, its extravagant colours, and naturally, the sensible story that gave the watch its nickname. All of it provides as much as one hell of a watch. What I personally love concerning the Pogue is that its design is characterised by the point it was created in. It doesn’t excuse itself for being extravagant. It’s funky, and you recognize it.
Each house nerd ought to have a Pogue of their assortment, not solely as a result of it appears to be like funky and superior but additionally as a result of it homes the legendary 6139 caliber.
And in contrast to Mike’s decide for this record, you may get a Pogue for comparatively good cash. Nevertheless, that’s not with out its challenges. You must know your Seiko historical past to know what you’re on the lookout for. And on high of that, with the ability to discover one in good situation might be powerful. That’s why it’s good to learn Mike’s article he wrote about his Pogue. It shares some perception into his seek for the best Pogue. However after getting discovered one, it is possible for you to to put on part of watch historical past.
Gerard’s decide — An early 1970s Seiko Computerized
Gerard’s decide is just not a selected Seiko watch; it’s extra a selected type of Seiko watch. If you want to get a style of classic Seiko enchantment and never spend a ton of cash on one of many legendary Seiko icons, Gerard’s decide is a good one. The Seiko 7006-8040 you see within the image is a good testomony to that typical ’70s cool. It featured a really wearable 37mm case and got here on a ‘beads of rice’ bracelet that appears as recent because it did virtually 5 many years in the past.
I’d attempt to discover a common Seiko Computerized — like this 7006-8040 — from the early seventies. These are cheap (so that you simply received’t have to avoid wasting up for too lengthy), and convey this actual classic feeling that in any other case, solely a Datejust can do.
General, the type of most of the early ’70s Seiko Computerized watches has nice enchantment. The case design of Gerard’s 7006-8040 is impressed by Taro Tanaka’s Grammar of Design, it has a really clean-looking dial, and the watch is powered by the 7006 motion that incorporates a day-date indication. For lower than €100 and slowly transferring as much as round €300 for an awesome situation piece, you’ll be able to have a variety of enjoyable carrying a classic Seiko and might get into the historical past of the model.
Bert’s decide — Seiko Prospex SPB103J1 Sumo
Bert’s decide may have simply as simply been my decide. Each Bert and I personal a earlier technology Sumo, and we each love that watch. The present Seiko Prospex SPB103 or the inexperienced Sumo might be the most effective Seiko your cash should purchase beneath €1,000. The most recent technology Sumo did enhance fairly considerably in comparison with earlier technology Sumo’s. The largest adjustments had been, unquestionably, the replace within the design of the bezel, a brand new Seiko caliber 6R35, and the improved high quality of the bracelet.
One among my favorite divers are the Sumo fashions, just like the Seiko Prospex Sumo SPB103J1 in inexperienced, as a result of they mix nice design and easily ship dependable high quality with out breaking the financial institution.
Add the truth that the Sumo is just not a re-issue or a contemporary interpretation of a Seiko diver of the previous, and that is the modern-day Seiko diver to get. And at an inventory worth of €830, there may be hardly any watch that comes near what the Sumo gives. Nevertheless, with a 45mm diameter and a 13mm thick case, it is a massive watch. However should you can pull it off, this is among the most rewarding Seiko divers on the market.
Rob’s decide — Seiko Prospex SPB185J1
I advised you the Seiko SPB185 was well-liked amongst the Fratello crew members. Rob is the second Fratello crew member that has the SPB185 on the high of his record. And depart it as much as Rob to jot down a full evaluation concerning the lugs of a watch. His love for them runs deep. And as an admirer of nice design, I at all times like studying his ideas on lugs in opinions. And he expressed his love for drastically designed lugs as soon as extra in his review of the SPB185.
My enthusiasm in my preliminary evaluation was most likely patent. Final 12 months, I purchased the SRPE33, Save the Ocean Samurai. If that one weren’t already in my assortment it could problem the SPB185, however there’s no denying the latter’s wider enchantment. At sub €1,500 it’s arduous to beat.
Whereas he didn’t spend a complete evaluation on them, Rob’s defined completely what makes the design so nice: “This can be a textbook instance of methods to make presence look elegant.” And mixed with the 42mm dimension, it makes the case of the SPB185 essentially the most thrilling Prospex Diver of latest occasions. It has the potential to develop right into a future traditional, however solely time will inform if we had been proper in that assumption.
Tomas’ decide — Seiko 5718-8000
Because it’s Tomas, you recognize his decide shall be one thing particular. And for this Seiko record, it’s really one thing particular. The Seiko 5718-8000 is among the rarest Seiko watches in existence. And whereas the model with a white dial might be discovered on-line, there may be additionally a black dial model. And that model is even more durable to search out. The truth that the 5718-8000 is so arduous to search out made it the poster look ahead to the much-discussed “Making Waves” Seiko public sale in August of final 12 months.
I’d love to accumulate a black dial Seiko 5718-8000. Why? It has a definite “grail” aura and is sufficiently bizarre with the weird counter beneath 12 o’clock. Apart from the shortage, it combines class and sports activities appears to be like.
Mike shared his ideas and findings on the public sale in an article about the auction organized by Bonhams. He wrote concerning the 5718-8000: “The Seiko 5718-8000 was produced in 1964 and bought through the Tokyo Summer season Olympics. Some estimate that solely 50 or so had been made.“ Even with a broken tachymeter ring, incorrect hour and minute palms, and a elegant case, the worth hit a greater than respectable €15,085. Understanding that the black dial model is much more scarce, Tomas is on the lookout for his Seiko grail, requiring deep pockets.
Dave’s decide — Seiko Presage SPB171J1
Dave’s decide is a break from all of the Seiko sports activities watches. As a substitute, his decide is a watch from the Presage collection that mixes beautiful Japanese craftsmanship with mechanical watches. And this SPB171 brings out the most effective in dial making. As Rob defined in his evaluation of the watch, the dial is product of porcelain and is impressed by the Japanese custom of Suigetsu, which celebrates the fantastic thing about the moon mirrored in water.
For me it must be the Seiko Presage SPB171J1. The gorgeous Arita porcelain dial is basically one thing to behold. The craftsmanship that goes into creating these dials gives extra worth than the worth alone may counsel.
The dials of this 2,000-piece restricted version are made by grasp craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi and his crew in Arita. The ability has been creating porcelain in the identical means since 1830. To make sure the porcelain might be used for the watches, it’s completed with a transparent glaze, so the porcelain’s whiteness shines via. Add the contrasting blued palms and markers, and you find yourself with one thing extraordinary for a worth of €2,100. And there are items nonetheless obtainable at chosen retailers.
My decide — Seiko Prospex SPB143J1
This was a troublesome one, truly. Seiko has so many nice watches; it took me a while to choose my favourite. I’m a kind of those who like each classic and new Seikos. For me, they go hand in hand in telling the model’s story. Relating to classic Seikos, the primary on my record is the 6139-6040. It’s a classic chronograph that rocks the identical motion as Balazs’ decide however with a totally completely different design. Mike reviewed his one in a match-up in opposition to a Zenith El Primero A386.
The SPB143J1 combines the story of the legendary Seiko 62MAS and brings it as much as modern-day requirements. Add the superb blue shade of this restricted version that was produced in a complete of 5,5000 items and we’ve got my winner.
Whereas a classic Seiko is at all times an choice, I particularly loved the brand new Prospex fashions in 2020. And it was a troublesome decide between the Prospex SPB187J1 and this Prospex SPB143J1. What made me resolve to go for this SPB143J1? I remembered how a lot enjoyable I had attempting out all of the SPB14x fashions final summer time. However the model of the fashionable reinterpretation of the legendary 62MAS I saved coming again to was the blue-colored SPB143J1. There’s simply one thing very good about that tone of the blue that I actually love. I’d put this on its stainless-steel bracelet and fortunately have this 40.5mm stunner as my day by day wearer.
There you could have it, our high Seiko picks. Tell us your ideas within the remark part, and inform us about your favourite Seiko watch.