It’s not unusual for manufacturers to introduce a number of fashions directly for a brand new assortment, often with constant aesthetics and infrequently differentiated by options. For instance, Eugen Wegner lately launched three watches that shared a typical design language and included time-only, time and date, and chronograph fashions. Louis Erard launched a trio of its personal fashions late final yr with the Excellence Triptych, refining present designs in its portfolio. All three share a particular look however are once more separated by options, show and motion – time solely, regulator, and monopusher chronograph. Let’s take a more in-depth take a look at this newest assortment, impressed by the Jura Mountains in Le Noirmont, Switzerland… and with cool two-tone silver sector dials.
Based in 1929 in La Chaux-de-Fonds as a college for watchmaking, the model started promoting watches in 1931. After a few acquisitions and a few inner turbulence, Louis Erard is now primarily based in Le Noirmont, Switzerland and produces accessible luxurious Swiss watches. Most items characteristic mechanical Sellita actions and plenty of are regulators, a method going again to grasp clocks of the 18th century. On the time, a clock’s minute hand was crucial reference for watchmakers and the others had been relegated to smaller, out-of-the-way registers. The model is fashionable for watch collectors at the moment and types like Chronoswiss have pioneered fashionable interpretations. The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur sits between the opposite two Triptych items with a basic design merging with a contemporary vibe.
Widespread to the gathering are blue fingers (Loius Erard blue), impressed by the “magical blue hour” – the transient interval when the solar dips beneath the horizon and the sky turns into a deep blue. The form of the fingers can also be impressed by the fir timber inside the Jura Mountains, the place Louis Erard watches are produced.
The model has lately acquired a powerful push and has gained reputation following collaborations with designers like Eric Giroud or Alain Silberstein, and with indie watchmaker Vianney Halter. Watches just like the distinctive Alain Silberstein Regulateur present a enjoyable, whimsical aspect with Silberstein’s signature model, whereas the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter is a trendy, but extra severe collaborative piece. Louis Erard’s portfolio has three common collections – Excellence, La Sportive, and Heritage – providing gown, sport, and extra informal watches. Regulators and chronographs appear to dominate, though the Heritage assortment gives modern three-hand fashions.
However at the moment it’s all concerning the Louis Erard Excellence Triptych Assortment and we’ll take a look in any respect three fashions which have lately been introduced.
The Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde
Beginning with the only and most accessible of the three, the Excellence Petite Seconde is a time-only mannequin with a big seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Its distinctive model is something however easy, nevertheless, with glorious consideration to element. The stainless-steel case is contemporarily sized at 42mm in diameter and 12.25mm in top. It wears properly and doesn’t overwhelm the wrist, however gives a reasonably daring presence that’s each basic and fashionable. The case itself was impressed by pocket watches of yore with a bulbous outer bezel, whereas the crown has an uncommon knurled sample modeled after pine timber, but additionally drawing from a variation of Swiss Artwork Nouveau. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, whereas a sapphire exhibition case again shows the Sellita SW 261-1 automated. This Élaboré grade motion has 31 jewels, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) with a 38-hour energy reserve.
The dial has a number of shades and textures, beginning with a matte opaline silver within the heart, surrounded by a extra satin silver ring with utilized Arabic numerals each two hours. The underside seconds sub-dial has a snailed sample and the deep blue hour and minute fingers characteristic the fir tree motif, as does the tip of the seconds hand. General, there’s a cool two-tone sector-like model to this small seconds model. The strap is a snug, textured chocolate calf nubuck leather-based with a metal pin buckle, which enhances the silver theme properly. Easy but multi-dimensional with a water resistance of 50 meters, the Excellence Petite Seconde retails for CHF 1,500.
Fast details: 42mm diameter x 12.25mm top – 316L stainless-steel – domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating – sapphire exhibition case again – 50-metre water resistance – matte opaline central dial with satin silver outer ring and snailed sub-dial at 6 o’clock – Sellita SW 261-1 automated (Élaboré grade) – 31 jewels – 28,800vph (4Hz) – 38-hour energy reserve – hours, minutes and sub-dial seconds – chocolate calf nubuck leather-based strap – Ref. 34237AA01 – CHF 1,500
The Louis Erard Excellence Chronograph Monopoussoir
At first look, the Excellence Chronographe Monopoussoir appears to be like just like the Petite Seconde with the sub-dial moved to 12 o’clock. Take a more in-depth look, nevertheless, and also you’ll see a central chronograph seconds hand, which means the sub-dial is, in reality, a 30-minute counter changing the small seconds. This piece is a monopusher chronograph and barely bigger than it’s time-only counterpart at 43mm in diameter and 15.7mm in top. It nonetheless wears properly and is akin to the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph Limited Edition on the wrist. I’ve barely smaller than common wrists and would don’t have any drawback sporting this day by day. The stainless-steel case has the identical design because the Petite Seconde with a domed sapphire crystal and exhibition case again, however this time we have now a Sellita SW 500MPCa automated (primarily based on the Valjoux 7750 structure). The MPCa designation is for the monopusher variant of the usual Sellita SW 500. That is once more an Élaboré grade motion with 25 jewels, 28,800vph (4Hz) and a 48-hour energy reserve. The pusher is inside the crown, that includes the identical fir tree sample as the opposite watches. Water-resistance stays at 50 meters.
The dial format is once more just like the Petite Seconde mannequin with the identical blue hour and minute fingers. The central chronograph seconds hand is an elongated model of the small seconds hand from the time-only piece, whereas the 30-minute counter hand is a small model of the hour hand. It’d sound a bit difficult, however there’s a real visible consistency all through each dials. The identical chocolate calf nubuck leather-based strap carries over as properly. The Excellence Chronographe Monopoussoir is deceptively complicated as its look is so just like the time-only mannequin, which explains its greater retail value of CHF three,500.
Fast details: 43mm diameter x 15.7mm top – 316L stainless-steel – domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating – sapphire exhibition case again – 50-metre water resistance – matte opaline central dial with satin silver outer ring and snailed sub-dial at 12 o’clock – Sellita SW 500MPCa automated (Élaboré grade) – 25 jewels – 28,800vph (4Hz) – 48-hour energy reserve – central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds with 30-minute countdown sub-dial – chocolate calf nubuck leather-based strap – Ref. 74239AA01 – CHF three,500
The Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur
Sitting in the course of the gathering from a pricing standpoint is the Excellence Régulateur, which can also be probably the most visually distinctive. It’s a streamlined model of the extra stylized Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter, falling nearer to the usual Excellence Regulator minus the facility reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, and with a distinct motion. The case is shared with the Petite Seconde mannequin at 42mm in diameter and 12.25mm in top and options twin sapphire crystals and a singular crown. The dial, in fact, is totally different, beginning with a full matte opaline end because the Arabic numerals are actually inside the prime hour sub-dial, not a centralized ring. Each sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock merge within the heart to kind an eight, and the snailed patterns truly mix collectively on the assembly level. The regulator format has the basic vertical association – hours on the prime, central minutes and seconds on the backside. It’s the cleanest of the model’s regulators and I choose the dial with no energy reserve indicator. The blue fingers have the identical model because the others, consequently with a shorter hour hand.
Powering the regulator is a Sellita SW 266-1 automated, that includes the identical specs as the automated within the Petite Seconde – 31 jewels, 28,800vph (4Hz) and a 38-hour energy reserve. It’s additionally an Élaboré grade motion. The rotors on all actions are personalized and open-worked with the Louis Erard image. After all, the identical chocolate calf nubuck leather-based strap is right here and as snug as ever. The Excellence Régulateur is priced at CHF 2,500 and is a superb different to costlier items from manufacturers like Chronoswiss (with the appears to be like to match).
Fast details: 42mm diameter x 12.25mm top – 316L stainless-steel – domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating – sapphire exhibition case again – 50-metre water resistance – matte opaline dial with snailed sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock – Sellita SW 266-1 automated (Élaboré grade) – 31 jewels – 28,800vph (4Hz) – 38-hour energy reserve – 12 o’clock hours, central minutes and 6 o’clock seconds – chocolate calf nubuck leather-based strap – Ref. 85237AA21 – CHF 2,500
I’m a giant regulator fan and have reviewed many over time such because the Chronoswiss Regulator Manufacture and Regulator Classic date, and Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema. Maybe I’m biased, however the Excellence Régulateur is my favourite of the three with the regulator format and clear aesthetics. That’s to not say that I don’t like the opposite two, fairly the opposite. Each are trendy and the monopusher chronograph may be very cool and practical, and costs are cheap. I’d fortunately put on any from the gathering each day and Louis Erard has finished an admirable job of sustaining a constant tone and design.
Though CHF 1,000 greater than the Excellence Régulateur, the chronograph is properly priced and even a bit lower than a comparable piece just like the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher. In case you’re searching for trendy and distinctive Swiss watches which might be each properly made and received’t break the financial institution, any piece from the Louis Erard Excellence Triptych Assortment ought to be in your shortlist.
For extra particulars and orders, go to www.louiserard.com.