It’s a brand new watch day. It’s a brand new watch day. Guess what? We now have a bunch of latest watches.
Hey guys it’s Nathan with Crown & Caliber and if I used to be excited a few weeks in the past as a result of we had a brand new Submariner then I’m even that rather more excited at present. So, a few weeks in the past we acquired the 124060 No Date Sub and I used to be giddy like just a little schoolboy. I imply, we did a reveal on digicam and the truth that we had a 41-millimeter Sub simply made me tremendous excited. I took a number of measurements. Was simply geeking out over the watch after which simply days if not weeks later we get the 126610LV, the brand new inexperienced bezel, and the 126610LN black bezel Date Sub. And so, to sort of reprise the earlier video primarily based on feedback that we had within the first one we went forward and bought the previous three generations of all these.
So, right here we go. The No Date in development, the Date Sub in development and the three anniversary Subs in development. And that is such a privilege of having the ability to work right here at Crown & caliber. That I get to see all of those watches and maintain them and study them and take an inordinate variety of measurements and actually begin to provide you with the variations and sort of create a definitive information on the present Submariner. And so at present what we’re going to do is we’re going to sort of undergo these watches and have a look at sort of the larger image as a result of I’ve already taken all of the measurements and this time round we gained’t concentrate on that, however we’re going to concentrate on the variations which have occurred after which additionally how they put on and finally what I believe is the very best Sub now. So, let’s leap in. Okay so getting began. I’m going to take a breath.
I’m nervous. I’m excited. Okay so leaping in. We’ll get Jonathan to take pictures of those watches on my wrist. We’ll get some close-ups on my wrist as effectively, so that you get an thought of how they put on however we’re going to leap proper in and speak about first the five-digit references.
So, that’s the No Date Submariner proper right here the five-digit Date Sub proper right here and the five-digit anniversary Submariner proper right here. So, 14060,16610, and 16610LV for the inexperienced bezel often called the Kermit. These three symbolize sort of the top of the road so far as what the sub had appeared like for successfully 50 years. And I believe what’s actually attention-grabbing amongst these three is there’s numerous inconsistencies. They’re not the identical thickness. The scale, which we’re measuring from three o’clock to 9 o’clock corroborated with six o’clock to 12 o’clock on the surface of the bezel, they’re additionally not constant. The lug to lug just isn’t constant. There simply is inconsistencies within the dimension which signifies that in manufacturing there’s simply variations. They’re nice watches I imply it’s a Submariner.
All three of them have hole heart hyperlinks within the bracelet however within the two date Subs the top hyperlinks are stable finish hyperlinks so it made for a way more safe match. Particularly, right here we’re taking a look at transitional references which suggests the case sides not have pierced lugs. The No Date Sub by no means acquired the stable finish hyperlinks and the closed off case sides as a five-digit reference. So, just a few context and sort of what that watch is.
So, these are the six-digit references. These had been the Supercase references. The Ceramic Sub, as its come to be identified, and issues bought extra constant. The watches had the identical thickness, they’d the identical dimension dial, identical dimension case, identical dimension bezel. They now had the up to date bracelet which meant not solely did the No Date Sub now have the stable finish hyperlinks, the entire heart hyperlinks had been now stable as effectively. And it had the up to date milled clasp with the brand new divers extension sort of straightforward hyperlink. So, in each approach I believe the six-digit Supercase Ceramic Sub, as we’re going to name, it was extra spectacular. I’ve stated that earlier than that’s nothing new. A number of the flaws. I’m going to name them what they’re. Name them flaws with the watch – is the Supercase.
It’s a rather more blocky design on the finish of the lugs. It’s simply chunky which then makes that transition to the bracelet a lot much less elegant than its five-digit predecessor. That is going to get actually granular, however it was a superb factor and a nasty factor once we switched to the six-digit reference the bracelet on the six o’clock facet has one much less non-removable hyperlink. What which means is on the six-digit reference bracelet on the six o’clock facet there are three non-removable hyperlinks which then means you possibly can dimension the watch a lot smaller and you’ll have the clasp centered in your wrist.
So, for those who have, let’s say it most likely begins round a six and a half inch wrist, you would rather more simply heart the clasp which is an effective factor, however what then needed to occur is that signifies that the bracelet needed to now taper from 20 millimeters on the lug to 16 millimeters as a result of that’s the dimension of the detachable hyperlinks and it had to do this in a single much less hyperlink. So it needed to do it in three hyperlinks and for those who look on the Supercase Submariners the bracelet taper is de facto aggressive and it virtually makes it look like the heft of the Submariner goes to overhaul that of the bracelet and pairing that with these rather more blocky lugs makes for some fairly excessive angles.
This can be a excellent time to say that we’re speaking on an especially granular stage however that’s what Rolex is. That’s how Rolex operates and that’s numerous why folks love these watches and it’s considerably misplaced on this design as a result of when it really works you don’t actually discover it, however when it doesn’t work it’s noticeable, and I believe what we see right here throughout these generations is for those who simply look you’re trying on the identical watch however it’s these minor adjustments over time and a refinement of a design that makes it so nice. In order that’s a brief offshoot however again on monitor.
Right here we ended up with a bracelet that might extra simply be sized for smaller wrists however with that a way more aggressive taper from the 20-millimeter to the 16-millimeter detachable hyperlink. Okay shifting on. We at the moment are to the 2020 submariner. The 124060 and the 126610. In fact, the LV and the LN inexperienced and black bezel and with this launch, which simply dropped in September, plainly Rolex could have righted its wrongs.
So, let’s begin with the positives then. I believe going ahead I’m going to name these the 12s as a result of it’s a one-two reference and I don’t know what we’re going to proceed calling them. So, the 12s they continued the consistency. So, they’d the identical dimension diameter. All three of them do which we might anticipate between the black and the inexperienced bezel dated Subs. They’re going to be the identical. The lug is similar. Thickness is similar. Bezel is similar. So once more, consistency is there.
Now right here’s the place issues begin to get actually attention-grabbing, in my view. We’ll begin with possibly the obvious is the case dimension elevated. So, it went to the 41-millimeter Sub, however as we addressed just a few weeks in the past it’s probably not a 41-millimeter. The earlier era, the six-digit Supercase was a 40.2-millimeter watch and within the new 12s now we have a 40.5-millimeter case dimension, so we had been speaking three tenths of a millimeter in distinction. So not a full 41-millimeter. Persistently throughout the board it’s a 40.5-millimeter case.
The bracelet went from a 20 millimeter to a 21-millimeter bracelet so making for a bigger bracelet and in addition the dial on these three went from a 30-millimeter to a 30.Three-millimeter. So, what we will see is proportionally the case dimension and the dial grew in unison from the six-digit reference. Now a number of the extra nuanced issues what which means is that the bezel which how we measured the bezel right here is we measured from the case diameter. In order that’s from the surface of the bezel we measured from Three o’clock to 9 o’clock after which corroborated it from 6 to 12 for consistency after which for dial we measured the crystal and once more Three to 9 o’clock 6 to 12 for consistency and we took the distinction because the bezel measurement.
Right here’s what’s loopy from the five-digit reference all the best way to the brand new 12s, the 2020 submariner. The bezel has remained the identical it’s a 5.1 millimeter bezel which suggests on the latest Sub it has proportionally talking a thinner bezel. And is that going to be that noticeable? No. It’s once more fractions of a millimeter, however it does have a proportionally thinner bezel which I believe is a reasonably loopy level.
A pair different factors. Now that now we have a thicker bracelet in a 21-millimeter on the brand new reference and the surface measurement of the lugs on the newer Submariners is definitely thinner, millimeter for millimeter, from the earlier Supercase we find yourself with each visually thinner however truly thinner lugs. So you recognize there’s most likely some margin for error in how I measured issues. I attempted to be extraordinarily constant however successfully every lug is a millimeter thinner at its finish than the earlier era. So, you will have a barely bigger case dimension. You’ve bodily thinner lugs and with that larger bracelet it simply makes it appear that rather more elegant as a result of it’s proportionately that a lot thinner compared to its earlier era.
Different issues value noting of significance is the brand new era is definitely thinner the earlier era Sub. The Supercase was 12.Three millimeters thick we at the moment are taking a look at a watch that’s 12 millimeters thick and once more three tenths of a millimeter how massive of a distinction is that Nathan? Effectively it’s a reasonably large distinction whenever you’re beginning to speak about case thickness and the truth that the watch has gotten larger diameter clever. Marginal it could be, and thinner means it’ll put on that significantly better on the wrist. Paired with the truth that the taper can also be smaller it simply wears smaller. There I stated it. The brand new 41-millimeter Submariner truly wears smaller than its earlier era.
One other level, and that is, I believe actually granular however it’s value mentioning. So the brand new reference is a 21 millimeter bracelet; it now tapers to a 17 millimeter detachable hyperlink and with that it’s nonetheless performed over three detachable hyperlinks within the bracelet. And humorous sufficient millimeter for millimeter the taper appears to be the identical so that you’re going from 21 to successfully a 17 millimeter hyperlink over these three hyperlinks which are non-removable. The taper is similar measurement however as a result of within the new reference it’s a bigger bracelet that signifies that millimeter for millimeter is proportionally a smaller share and thus on the brand new reference the bracelet taper doesn’t appear as aggressive and like I stated that is granular. These measurements are minor however whenever you see the sum of the components and also you see it collectively it appears to be like so significantly better.
One other attention-grabbing level is we’ll return all the best way to the five-digit. So, I discussed that six o’clock facet 4 non-removable hyperlinks and that occurred to be on either side of the case. Leap as much as the six-digit reference now we have now three non-removable hyperlinks which suggests you possibly can dimension the watch even smaller and have a centered clasp on the underside of your wrist. We leap to the latest reference you will have three non-removable hyperlinks on the six o’clock facet however now 4 non-removable hyperlinks on the 12 o’clock facet.
Why Rolex did this we will speculate. Right here are some things. How the clasp sits means that you’re usually going to need a smaller bracelet dimension on the six o’clock facet. So, there’s no actual cause to have equal non-removable hyperlinks on either side that will appear to be most likely the obvious cause. However I believe an attention-grabbing level too, that’s now there must be a separate product quantity – a separate SKU for the six o’clock and the 12 o’clock bracelet facet as a result of it’s non-removable. You’ve two bodily completely different components and I believe that’s possibly small however on the size by which Rolex makes watches is fairly spectacular and these are the issues that I believe can get missed for those who personal one and don’t have the chance to have a look at 9 of them.
However that’s small adjustments that actually converse to Rolex saying hey we’re going to in each approach refine this and make it the very best that we will make it and one thing as foolish and trivial as that will appear that makes a giant distinction and it actually goes to point out that nothing is with out consideration on this watch. One thing lots of people additionally requested about is the load of the subs. So, going from the five-digit reference to the six-digit reference you’re taking a look at a distinction of about 30 grams. Could not sound like lots however when it’s in your wrist it’s noticeable.
I believe with going from the 40-millimeter to the 41 there was a priority that it was going to get that a lot heavier. Effectively I’ll let you recognize that the three 41-millimeter submariners are like two to 3 grams heavier. I imply it’s a negligible distinction. I had talked with one of many watchmakers and he stated that the brand new 3200 collection motion is definitely a heavier motion so it most likely has a number of the weight distinction as effectively, however all in all the load distinction between the six-digit Supercase and the brand new Submariners is negligible.
And so in case you are used to the load of one of many heavier watches, which I’ll say is principally from the bracelet, the truth that all these heart hyperlinks at the moment are stable milled chrome steel – that’s the place it’s gaining numerous weight. So, for those who’re used to that, the brand new 41-millimeter reference isn’t going to vary that a lot. And for these of you that love the five-digit reference, the lighter weight of that I believe with the up to date clasp design and bracelet you possibly can, particularly in case you have a smaller wrist, extra finely dial in the place that clasp sits and doubtless get a greater match in your wrist.
So, I don’t suppose the load distinction actually even applies now to the newer reference due to how one can get that clasp to take a seat that significantly better and that rather more precisely in your wrist. So, level value addressing is the load as a result of they’re heavier. However I believe it’s a negligible distinction in relation to the up to date bracelet as effectively.
All proper now that we’ve lined a ton of numbers I do wish to briefly tackle the motion. So within the five-digit references we had the 3100 collection. 3130 within the No-Date, the 3135 within the two dated variations. Leaping to the Supercase, that didn’t change. So, the 114060 No-Date continued having the 3130 and the “Hulk” and the Supercase Date Sub had the 3135. So, once we jumped into the 12s we gained the wholly new 3200 collection motion. So, it’d be the 3230 and the 3235 within the date variations and Rolex says one thing like 95 new components.
Issues like their Chronenergy escapement, which is a way more environment friendly escapement, issues like a 70-hour energy reserve so undoubtedly performance-wise a a lot superior motion. One of many factors of rivalry probably within the 3200 collection is the oscillating weight. Apparently there are new bearings within the pivot and folks say that it’s louder so we’re going to do our greatest to seize that with the microphones on a comparability between the 3100 collection motion and the 3200 collection motion and actually see if there’s a noticeable distinction due to these bearings. However aside from that, the motion is by far a superior motion, so now we have numerous numbers and motion stuff out of the best way.
So, let’s speak visually talking and I wish to begin with the 126610lv “Starbucks,” “Cermit,” no matter we’re going to name it. We’ll provide you with a reputation for it. The inexperienced bezel appears to be the identical inexperienced bezel that got here from the Hulk. Now, it has a black dial somewhat than the inexperienced sunburst fashion from the Hulk, so it appears to be like extra just like the Kermit. I’m nonetheless on the fence about this. I used to be a giant lover of the hulk. I liked the inexperienced dial. I liked the way it appeared black in some lights, however the tremendous case simply didn’t do it for me. So, I used to be tremendous excited once they launched this watch, however I sort of want as a result of it’s again to the black dial that the inexperienced was just a little bit extra of that emerald inexperienced that the Kermit had.
So, I’m nonetheless on the fence about what I believe visually about this watch however once more stylistically I believe the sub is unquestionably a step in the correct route. Like we’ve talked about now between the plain date model and the 124060. I imply these two watches I’ll simply say are close to excellent. I imply the proportions are nice; like I stated they put on tremendous effectively – the black is great. The font on all three of those now’s just a little bit extra daring. And I believe within the side-by-sides you’ll discover that each one three of those watches the arms have grown. Not solely as a result of the case dimension grew, however proportionally the minute hand now comes all the best way to the minute monitor. The second hand can also be just a little longer, so the arms simply fill the dial that significantly better.
One other level, that is going to be sort of laborious to note, however is on the heart put up it does appear that it dips in just a little greater than the earlier Supercase reference and you’ll sort of catch it in a number of the reflections from the excessive gloss lacquer on the dial . Somebody did point out that within the earlier video, and I didn’t discover it at first, and as I appeared more durable and more durable, I believe it’s there. I believe there’s a noticeable dip that wasn’t within the earlier reference.
So, now that we’ve talked a couple of bunch of measurements on the watch, let’s sort of step again once more. Rolex is rarely going to say this, however the Supercase was a mistake. Some folks could prefer it, but when we go from the five-digit reference to the brand new 12’s, as I’m calling them, it looks like a pure succession. It looks like the tremendous case was sort of an offshoot they usually have mounted it in each approach.
The brand new 12’s look like the older brother the newer sibling the larger brother no matter you wish to name it to the outdated five-digit reference. The elegant strains are again albeit they’re just a little bit larger, just a little bit extra spectacular. Phrases that I exploit to explain the Supercase, however they don’t include this blocky aggressive design that the Supercase had and in each approach the 12 retains that spectacular nature that the Supercase had, however it brings again the magnificence of the five-digit reference.
So, I’m a giant proponent of the five-digit Submariners. I like the nostalgia that it at a look appears to be like like a sub that’s 30 or 40 years outdated and you’ll’t actually inform the distinction. However the spectacular nature of the Supercase Sub, the Ceramic Sub, and now the 12’s is tough to disclaim. And particularly with the 12 it feels really, and I’ve stated this earlier than, however it appears like a contemporary sports activities watch. It’s spectacular. Its proportions are nice. It wears so effectively. So I believe that it goes with out saying that the three new 12’s – the 124060, 126610 and 126610LV Cermit, ceramic Kermit, Starbucks no matter we’re going to name it – are the definitive Submariner.
In case you are on the lookout for a Submariner, effectively, good luck. You’re most likely not going to search out one, however in case you are searching for a Submariner these are what I’m going to advocate. They proportionally are as excellent as we’ve seen but and I believe that from the sheer expertise standpoint they’re extraordinarily spectacular. So, line within the sand, that’s what I’m saying. I’m saying that the brand new references are sort of the definitive go-to’s. Perhaps that’ll change within the coming months as I’ve seen extra of those and the novelty wears off, however I believe the truth that I’m able to empirically have a look at them, I’m capable of make a reasonably goal choice in what I believe is the present greatest Sub providing. The brand new Submariner!
We bought all of them in case you have questions please proceed to place them within the feedback – now we have the watches. We’ll reply them and allow you to know something you wish to find out about them and as at all times, thanks for watching.