Welcome to the 2020 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions wherein the crew picks favorites and explains why.
The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Inexperienced (MG), resident gentleman
Bhanu Chopra (BC), resident flieger professional
The GPHG basis describes the Ladies Complication category for watches entered as “girls’s watches which can be outstanding when it comes to their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches might function all types of basic and/or revolutionary problems and indications (like annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, advanced moon part, digital or retrograde time show, world time, second time zone, or others) and don’t match the definition of the Women and Mechanical Exception classes.”
GG: I’m fairly having fun with this 12 months’s set of finalists on this class! We have now tourbillons (which I do know will not be strictly a complication, however I’ll let that slide), automata, music, retrograde time, a retrograde calendar, and even meshing heart-shaped gears. Who mentioned creativity and craft have been useless in watchmaking?
IS: Whereas contenders for the GPHG Women class ought to, in my view, have a deal with day by day wearability, the watches within the Women Complication class are for extra particular events.
I’m a bit upset with lots of the nominated watches right here as I don’t assume that almost all are both difficult sufficient or creative sufficient. It seems from a few of the watches right here that only a tourbillon (and ubiquitous diamonds) is sufficient. To be honest, although, that’s extra the results of the GPHG guidelines for the Women class excluding a tourbillon, leaving no alternative for manufacturers to enter a ravishing, however comparatively easy, girls’ watch with a tourbillon escapement into the Complication class.
ED: And to be honest in that time, although, Ian, there aren’t that many girls’ watches with tourbillons in any respect! So their entries listed here are justified – even when, as Gary mentioned and horological custom dictates, a tourbillon isn’t a complication as a result of it provides no perform.
MG: Particularly in the previous few years, I really feel that manufacturers unleash extra of their creativity relating to difficult girls’ watches. That mentioned, I nonetheless discover it attention-grabbing that 4 of the six nominated watches on this class function a tourbillon. Whereas a tourbillon makes a watch motion extra advanced, it’s not a complication however a regulating machine. I perceive the motivation for the GPHG to incorporate tourbillons on this class, however particularly as an authority, the muse may need to take into account redefining this class.
BC: The Women Complication class presents some spectacular and revolutionary mechanical problems. Nevertheless, my vote goes to a watch the place complication is showcased in a easy method and there’s no deviation from the general aesthetics of the watch simply to showcase technical prowess.
IS: I’d additionally prefer to state up entrance that whereas I’ve dealt with variations of some of the watches right here, I haven’t dealt with any of those particular watches, so my opinions might, or are even prone to, change if/once I do have a possibility to see them within the steel.
And it’s value highlighting that whereas the class is named “Women Complication,” the GPHG guidelines for these watches state, “girls’s watches which can be outstanding when it comes to their mechanical creativity and complexity.” No point out of “complication,” so by that definition if a tourbillon is taken into account advanced and artistic sufficient, it could qualify.
JM: In contrast to the fundamental Women class, the Women Complication class has a driving issue behind the judging: creativity and execution of mechanical problems. This enables different issues like practicality or versatility to be missed in favor of mechanical awesomeness. In fact, I’ll nonetheless personally select a extra significant meeting of problems because it additionally highlights the power to focus and supply worth.
Whereas the Mechanical Exception class is technically the place for highlighting the wildest mechanics, I nonetheless really feel that some restraint and logical software is efficacious for the Women Complication class.
ED: Good thought, Joshua. Simply do not forget that final sentence relating to sizing, please. Watch producers typically neglect that measurement and carrying consolation are particularly essential to girls – effectively, to me anyway. However I doubt I’m alone in that.
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
ED: This watch is so extremely wearable, function constructed, versatile in its number of variations, and starting from no diamonds to full diamonds as seen right here. I additionally love the silky bracelet with its engaging snake scales. There isn’t a lot I don’t like about it. I’ve at all times beloved the inventive Serpenti collection, and the lately launched Seduttori with simplified bracelet and now the tourbillon take one thing nice and make it even higher and extra wearable. This new bracelet can be traded in for a daily strap – although why anybody would do that’s past me. The bracelet turns this watch into jewellery.
As for the “complication” side – whereas we right here broadly agree that a tourbillon isn’t a complication within the strict horological sense, this class by default is the place the female tourbillons land. So I discover their inclusion to be completely justified. And the Bulgari is my private favourite right here as a result of its tiny purpose-built tourbillon provides an indication of technical ability essential to each the class and myself, and the right proportions of its measurement are perfect for a cushty match on a lady’s wrist. Once I tried this watch on throughout LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, I barely registered it on my wrist, so snug it was.
MG: Whereas I feel Bulgari did an impressive job with the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, becoming it with the smallest motion with a flying tourbillon presently out there out there, I can’t decide it to win due to the remark I made above. Nevertheless, I feel that the jury will generously overlook this reality. In any other case, it could be slim pickings anyway, and that the Bulgari has a great opportunity to say victory on this class. Given the motion and execution of the general piece, I can’t blame them. For me, this watch was one of many highlights of the LVMH Watch Week in Dubai earlier this 12 months. It’s elegant with out being old school and general effectively proportioned. An effective way for the model to perpetuate its Serpenti saga.
JM: Bulgari has a historical past of offering wonderful aesthetic and mechanical course for each males’s and ladies’s watches, and the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is one other nice instance of this capacity. Exterior of the stylistic decisions and excellent craftsmanship with the jeweling and goldsmithing on this watch, the tourbillon is improbable with a sapphire crystal bridge and the smallest tourbillon measurement available on the market.
I feel that lots of people will love this look ahead to a large number of causes, and I wouldn’’t blame them. Even so, I don’t assume it’s the greatest instance of a sophisticated girls watch within the class. So whereas it’s an aesthetic favourite, it misses the highest spot for me by missing any actual complication by the extensively accepted commonplace of the phrase.
GG: Second on my listing is the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon with its tiny, serpent head-shaped tourbillon motion. The diamond bracelet model appears a bit a lot maybe, however each the pink gold and white gold strap variations appear fairly hanging, not less than in pictures, and I give Bulgari full factors for creating an ultra-small, non-round tourbillon motion only for this piece.
ED: You’d be stunned, Gary, simply how low-key the bracelet comes throughout attributable to its proportionate dimensions. It doesn’t overpower within the least. And given the selection, I would favor it on the bracelet – which signifies that (for me not less than) it’s not too excessive.
BC: My winner is Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon. Bulgari’s watch division retains pushing technical and design components yearly. The Serpenti Seduttori is a brilliantly designed watch, and the addition of the tourbillon suits so naturally into the general aesthetics of the bejeweled watch.
IS: I like the form of the Bulgari Serpenti, the 34 mm measurement makes for a really wearable watch, and the complete diamond snow setting of the dial, case, bracelet, and clasp is actually eye-catching however surprisingly non-ostentatious. The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a watch that ought to simply match at any dressy event. It’s a improbable high-end girls’ watch and maybe the prettiest watch right here, nonetheless a tourbillon simply isn’t sufficient of a complication, or creatively advanced, for me to contemplate it a winner.
Fast Details Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Case: 34 x eight.9 mm, white gold, set with a complete of 558 diamonds (7.89 ct) on case, bezel, dial and bracelet
Motion: guide wind Caliber BVL150 with one-minute tourbillon with sapphire crystal bridge, energy reserve 40 hours, three Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Value: €165,000/CHF 165,000
Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel
GG: The Charles Girardier Tourbillon Mystérieuse is appropriately named for me as it’s fairly a thriller. It’s a tourbillon watch with an odd rotating thingy at 12 o’clock within the type of the model’s initials; a really transient video on the GPHG web site of the mechanism in varied positions doesn’t present any confidence that it’s a helpful addition. The motion is claimed to be offered by the “Timeless manufacture,” a company that I might discover no details about regardless of a prolonged on-line search. And an general search means that there could also be nobody on the market who has really seen certainly one of these items. Nonetheless, we discover it among the many finalists for a prize this 12 months.
ED: Exactly the purpose I used to be about to make, Gary! Keep in mind when Beauregard entered the Dahlia in the 2018 edition of the GPHG? None of us knew that watch or the model both. However it was voted into the ultimate spherical on the energy of the picture and outline offered. When judging day got here, I used to be significantly excited to deal with that piece, and because it seems my pleasure was justified: it was an absolute stunner of a wristwatch. Later, I got to know Alexandre Beauregard and perceive the background of each model and watch.
My level to these remarks are twofold: 1) it must be a lesson to manufacturers, particularly new or small manufacturers, to do their press work diligently previous to an occasion such because the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and turn out to be a bit higher recognized; and a couple of) as a lot as we’d prefer to gloss over what we don’t know in our tiny watch trade, generally it’s value looking. Such as you, my first intuition was to ignore this watch as searches have turned up nothing and I don’t know who’s behind this, however remembering my expertise with Beauregard is sufficient for me to carry my tongue for now and hope that I get an opportunity to deal with this watch sooner slightly than later. The outline and photographs of it are attention-grabbing.
MG: I’ve by no means understood the necessity to have a monogram on an merchandise. I’m completely able to figuring out my identify or figuring out my very own property. If I can’t do this anymore, I’m prepared for an aged care residence, the place in lots of circumstances they put your identify on what’s yours. So the charming “monogram” complication is a bit misplaced on me. I’m extra taken by the diamond-set tourbillon cage and the gorgeously executed dial. Given the competitors on this class, I doubt whether it is sufficient for the win, although.
JM: This watch is a terrific instance of mechanical creativity and playfulness discovering its approach right into a watch designed with girls in thoughts. Demonstrating a “mysterious” signature on the dial, the Tourbillon Signature Mysterieuse distinctly lives as much as its identify. I like the idea and it’s clear the implementation is prime notch with a real haute horlogerie motion. However I additionally don’t see plenty of worth added (in a complication sense) with the automaton signature. It doesn’t present any further data past time so I can’t rightly select it to win the class.
IS: The Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel is properly sized at 37 mm, a flying tourbillon is extra difficult than an ordinary tourbillon, and the rotating mysterious signature disks (I feel it’s each a stretch and inaccurate to explain them as an automaton) provides further kinetic curiosity to that already amply provided by the rotating diamond-set flying tourbillon cage. And I very very like the engraved, silver paillon-set, oven-fired, enamel dial. That is an especially handsome watch with visually attention-grabbing problems, however I don’t really feel that it’s difficult sufficient to win this class.
Fast Details Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel
Case: 37 x 11.eight mm, white gold, bezel set with zero.eight ct diamonds
Dial: high-fire enamel with paillons
Motion: automated Caliber CG1809 (Timeless manufacture) with one-minute flying tourbillon and peripheral rotor, 46-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/four Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes; rotating disks with emblem
Value: 90,000 Swiss francs
Jacob & Co. Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow
ED: An exceedingly related model of this watch known as Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin set with pink sapphires as an alternative of rainbow-colored sapphires was entered into the 2019 Ladies Complication category and made it by way of to the ultimate spherical. Whereas the gem choice and setting is excellent on each of those watches, the actually astronomical proportions of this case – 21 mm in peak!!!! – make it virtually unwearable. I felt that approach about this watch final 12 months, and I nonetheless really feel that approach about it now.
Nevertheless, as an objet d’artwork, it’s irresistible, fascinating, and easily lovely. In truth, this 12 months’s “rainbow” sapphires make it much more interesting to me.
GG: I actually, actually wished to place the Jacob & Co. watch larger on the listing, but it surely’s a rainbow-colored remake of final 12 months’s violet-hued Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin watch so I knocked it down for that motive.
JM: This watch is the very best demonstration of why this class must be cut up into two extra express classes: specifically, Women Complication and Women Mechanical Exception. This motion and three-dimensional mechanical ballet is visually marvelous and demonstrates advanced mechanics not often seen on a girls’ timepiece. However it additionally does nothing so as to add usable data to the wearer, the purposeful intent of a complication, and so from my perspective it fails on the objective of a sophisticated timepiece. It has no equal within the class, but it surely is also all-show and no-go, which retains it from successful in my thoughts.
IS: The Jacob & Co. Astronomia is a sensational complication, and the Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow appears to be like like an LSD-augmented theme park for the wrist. With its triple-axis tourbillon and colourful gem-set rotating flowers and counter-rotating ranges, that is by far probably the most difficult watch on this subject by a large margin.
At 42.5 mm, it’s giant, however not too giant for a lot of girls to put on. And though its 21 mm peak signifies that it’s unlikely to slide beneath cuffs, it’s not a watch you’d need to cowl up anyway. It’s far too excessive for my style, however I find it irresistible! I feel that the Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow is a strong contender to win this class.
MG: All the time depend on Jacob & Co. to ship a enjoyable piece! I feel that it has finished exceedingly effectively in making the Astronomia extra wearable, even for a girl. In the event you don’t thoughts the peak, after all. In purposeful phrases, the problems don’t do a lot, however particularly with the disco explosion of various coloured gem stones is it such a enjoyable piece. I might see this watch win the class due to it.
Fast Details Jacob & Co. Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow
Case: 42.5 x 21 mm, pink gold with coloured sapphires
Motion: manually wound skeletonized Caliber JCAM31 with one-minute flying triple-axis tourbillon, energy reserve 48 hours; four Hz/28,800 vph frequency, skeletonized
Capabilities: hours, minutes, animation with rotating flowers
Limitation: 101 items
Value: 390,000 Swiss francs
Comment: 7.63 whole gemstone carat weight, together with a 288-facet Jacob-cut inexperienced tsavorite
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace
MG: Jacob & Co doesn’t have the patent on enjoyable girls’ watches, although, because the Masterpiece Embrace competes brilliantly with two heart-shaped gears. It’s considerably gimmicky, however once I noticed this watch throughout Geneva Watch Days I couldn’t assist however think about it. It’s such a chilled and mesmerizing movement, particularly with a deep blue aventurine dial as a backdrop. Granted, it’s fairly the problem at first to inform the precise date on the retrograde date complication, though the little dots assist greater than you believe you studied. Above the date, it says “I like you a bit, lots, madly!” in French, proving as soon as extra that completely all the pieces sounds higher on this language. For me, the winner of this class.
JM: The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace does one thing all the opposite watches on this class do: present an attention-grabbing visible ballet for mechanical-minded folks to comply with. The center-shaped gears are a intelligent and exact little bit of engineering that Maurice Lacroix has applied in varied methods previously to nice success. But when that was all this watch did it could fall in need of really being a sophisticated timepiece. It additionally incorporates a retrograde date mechanism, which, whereas being a second attention-grabbing little bit of engineering often discovered extra in males’s watches, can also be a helpful complication, one thing that technically no different watch on this class can declare to have.
For that motive, if the jury members have been to be sticklers about helpful problems that present further data past fundamental time, that is the one piece that may even technically win. I’ve a sense that the jury might be a bit extra liberal in its adjudicating, so I received’t predict this one to win, but when I’m to be that man, it’s the just one that ought to win out of the preselected watches as it’s the solely watch that shows further data for the wearer.
IS: The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace is one other engaging girls’ watch right here that has been finished a disservice by (to make use of a boxing analogy) being bumped up right into a weight class wherein it could possibly’t compete. The aventurine dial appears to be like nice and I’m a fan of the retrograde date; nonetheless, whereas the cleverly meshing rotating hearts of the small seconds may look difficult, I don’t assume all of it provides up sufficient to be a severe contender.
GG: Third for me is the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace with its meshing hearts towards an aventurine background and in addition that includes a refined retrograde date indication. The romantic inscription on the dial is taken straight from the Christophe Claret Margot watch of a number of seasons in the past, which diminished my enjoyment of the watch considerably. However general it appeared effectively thought out and is sort of decently priced, too.
ED: Maurice Lacroix, as Joshua identified in Round, Schmround! The Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel Cube, does a lot with gears nowadays. The 2 hearts in a perpetual rotating embrace is a reinterpretation of the model’s sq. wheel idea and a fascinating use of the know-how.
At 40 x 13 mm, it’s chunky for a girl’s wrist, but it surely needed to be because the meshing hearts and retrograde date are modules on prime of the Sellita base motion. Once I lastly had the prospect to do this watch on earlier this 12 months, I used to be astounded at how effectively it match regardless of its slightly stately measurement. The straps and buckles at this model are extraordinarily effectively thought by way of, as are most issues that this excellent firm does.
I’m a sucker for each retrograde capabilities and aventurine dials, and it’s refreshing to see a model use this beautifying materials with out additionally including diamonds. The value of this stainless-steel watch is sort of refreshing too. It’s my runner up on this class.
Additional studying: Round, Schmround! The Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel Cube
Fast Details Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace
Case: 40 x 13 mm, stainless-steel
Dial: aventurine with silver powder pad printing
Motion: automated Caliber ML258 (Sellita SW200 base), 36-hour energy reserve, 28,800 vph/four Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; retrograde date
Value: 6,900 Swiss francs
Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon
MG: Wanting on the GPHG choices is considerably of a problem when some watches are, in essence, not that new, only a new configuration of an older mannequin. Within the case of this Altiplano Tourbillon, whereas technically excellent, I’ve by no means gotten used to the dial association. It feels quirky and not using a want for it, and I discover the design on the mother-of-pearl dial additionally not tantalizing sufficient to distract me from this reality. As this Piaget additionally has nothing extra to supply than a tourbillon, it’s for me not the winner on this class.
BC: My runner up place goes to the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon. It has been enjoyable to look at the competition between Piaget and Bulgari for the world’s thinnest movements with varied problems. Right here Piaget has applied a tourbillon complication into an already slim Altiplano case, and I actually just like the off-centered dial and tourbillon cage!
IS: Whereas the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon has a flying tourbillon, the actual complication right here for me is that it’s an ultra-thin watch, which the model is famend for. The motion is just four.6 mm in peak, however come on, Piaget, if certainly one of your watches’ foremost sights is its svelte thinness, why not present a photograph from the aspect so we are able to respect that reality?
This Altiplano Tourbillon can be a powerful contender for me if there was a “Barely Sophisticated” Women class. I take into account ultra-thin to be a severe complication (though, like a tourbillon, it doesn’t technically qualify as a complication), however that’s nonetheless not fairly sturdy sufficient for me right here. That mentioned, it’s very engaging and appears to be a really wearable watch in a variety of events, and I give it prime marks for that.
JM: The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon is a improbable watch with a clear and mechanically spectacular ultra-thin tourbillon, showcasing Piaget’s ability in very skinny mechanics. However like I’ve mentioned for different watches, and one thing I need to maintain as essential for this class, a tourbillon isn’t sufficient to win the Women Complication class because it doesn’t present any new data or, for a lot of, even depend as a complication in itself. Superior watch, not the very best “difficult” girls’ watch except that phrase doesn’t imply what it ought to.
ED: Piaget opted to present the flying tourbillon beneficiant room to shine towards this already shiny dial by making the subdial for the hours and minutes the identical diameter because the tourbillon cutaway, giving the watch a sure sense of fashion that’s solely enhanced by its excessive thinness: Caliber 670P is available in at four.6 mm in peak! Nonetheless, with so many Piaget Altiplano Tourbillons launched this 12 months, it feels lots much less particular than it ought to one way or the other.
GG: There’s completely nothing improper with the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon, however neither does it excite. The look to me is sort of old school and never even the ultra-thinness of the tourbillon motion might overcome that for me.
Additional studying: 3 New Tourbillons From Watches & Wonders 2020: A Pursuit Of Personal Passion
Fast Details Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon
Case: 38 x 7.35 mm, pink gold, bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.09 ct)
Dial: engraved mother-of-pearl
Motion: guide winding Caliber 670P with one-minute flying tourbillon, 48-hour energy reserve, three Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Limitation: 88 items
Value: 114,000 Swiss francs
Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant
ED: Van Cleef & Arpels continues its Poetic Issues with a set of three “musical ballerina” watches impressed by a 1960s three-part ballet known as Jewels by choreographer George Balanchine, which he created after assembly Claude Arpels. Every of the three timepieces represents one of many current faculties of ballet – French, Russian, and American – which is revealed by the selection of treasured stones (the opposite two are set with rubies and emeralds). The premise is enchanting and figuring out Van Cleef & Arpels the execution is probably going flawless.
Nevertheless – and this can be a enormous nonetheless – this watch is blessed with fully unwearable sizing for females. So regardless of its excessive playfulness and severe mechanical chops, I have to disregard it right here.
IS: With its Poetic Issues assortment, Van Cleef & Arpels mainly invented the class of mechanically severe girls’ watches, and it’s nonetheless head and shoulders above a lot of the competitors. VC&A doesn’t merely put current problems into girls’ watches, its problems are each poetic and inform tales. In these COVD-19 days of restricted journey and restricted social events, the Ballerine Musicale Diamant presents an evening out on the ballet with out leaving the home. Though that will be a disgrace (and egocentric) because it deserves a bigger viewers.
However to win the Women Complication class a watch has to supply greater than emotional poetry and an evening on the Bolshoi – and the Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant does simply that: in addition to the dancing ballerina automatons, we’ve got retrograde hours, retrograde minutes, and music! And it’s the mixed carillon and music field offering the melodic ballet theme tune that leads me to select the Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant as my winner of the 2020 GPHG Women Complication class.
GG: Prime of my listing amongst this group is the Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant. A really refined retrograde time indication arcs throughout the highest of the proscenium of our theatre, and upon actuation the curtain opens to disclose ballerinas dancing to music from the ballet offered by a mixture of carillon chimes and a music field. It’s fairly laborious to argue with that mixture, I’d say! The watch is each giant in diameter and thick, however as an announcement piece that can also be technically fascinating this one is a winner in my e-book.
My solely concern, as with a number of of the opposite entered watches, is whether or not a working instance might be out there for judging given the acknowledged September 2020 supply date. We will see!
MG: What a shocking piece is that this Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant! The diamond setting mixed with the beautiful complication make it a watch that almost all actually stands out. Nevertheless, this isn’t the one approach it stands out because it fully disqualifies itself by being a whopping 44.5 mm in diameter. Mix this with a peak of 14.45 mm, and this watch merely an excessive amount of of a very good factor. Given its complication, it is extremely comprehensible that Van Cleef & Arpels wanted the area to make it occur. As it’s even for almost all of males already an outsized watch, it is just too huge in my view to take residence the prize within the Women’ Complication class.
ED: And proper you might be, Martin! As an object, just like the Jacob & Co, this watch is enjoyable. As a timepiece and even jewellery piece it could be too cumbersome to really put on. My guess is that it’s meant to be a secure queen anyway.
JM: That is the watch I predict to be the winner and it additionally form of fails in my requirement of really including data for the wearer. However given what else it does, I feel that might be missed and it’ll take the trophy this 12 months. The Ballerine Musicale Diamant is a retrograde hours and retrograde minutes watch with a miniature automaton animation and a musical mechanism that performs a melody on demand.
In contrast to different items, the thematic causes for together with the advanced mechanisms make sense with the mix of automatons and musical mechanisms. Regardless that this watch lacks a complication that imparts data it does impart expertise, and that’s helpful as effectively. It additionally is sensible inside its personal reference body: the automaton and music aspect are half of an entire and never only a curiosity added for the sake of complexity. Van Cleef & Arpels is well-known for top-notch mechanical animations tied to time shows and different options, so it can be safely assumed that this piece follows in these footsteps.
IS: It’s value repeating Joshua that the primary sentence of the class guidelines state: “ . . . girls’s watches which can be outstanding when it comes to their mechanical creativity and complexity.” It doesn’t really say “complication.”
BC: My third place goes to the Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant. This model has perfected the artwork of storytelling in a mechanical watch.
Fast Details Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant
Case: 44.5 x 14.45 mm, white gold, bezel, case, dial and buckle set with brilliant-cut diamonds (7.92 ct)
Dial: miniature portray, set with diamonds
Motion: guide winding caliber, 52-hour energy reserve, three Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Capabilities: retrograde hours, retrograde minutes; ballerina automaton, on-demand carillon and music field music
Value: 438,000 Swiss francs
For extra data, please go to www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2020/nominated-watches#2020_COMPLICATION_DAME.
Elizabeth: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Bhanu: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
Ian: Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant
Joshua: Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant
Gary: Van Cleef & Arpels Woman Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant
Martin: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace