The launch of Vacheron’s Fiftysix assortment in 2018 was a shock for many people, marking a transparent separation from the model’s basic collections. Initially positioned as an entry-level assortment to draw a youthful era of purchasers, the Fiftysix touted an computerized three-hand mannequin in metal with an ‘accessible’ price ticket of EUR 11,000. Though the notion of Vacheron Constantin producing an ‘reasonably priced’ watch is at odds with the model’s venerable repute for Haute Horlogerie, the concept was to seduce a youthful, trendier buyer. How? By leaping on the ever-so-trendy retro bandwagon and revisiting a 1956 mannequin in a recent key. Distilling a trendy retro-contemporary vibe, the Fiftysix has appeared as a complete calendar, a tourbillon, and a day/date.
Having experimented with silver and blue dials, Vacheron determined to supply a wealthy, heat brown color to offset the luxurious enchantment of 18ok pink gold. Final April, two 40mm pink gold boutique-exclusive fashions with sepia-brown dials – an entire calendar and computerized – had been welcomed into the Fiftysix household. The mix of a pink gold case with a heat brown dial is basic and opulent, however particulars just like the sector dial, the calfskin strap with beige stitching, and the touches of lume assert its extra informal character.
Reference 6073 of 1956 was the model’s first computerized, water resistant watch with case lugs that evoked the 4 arms of the emblematic Maltese cross. The 40mm case of the Fiftysix picks up on the Maltese cross configuration however in a bolder, extra modern style. Though design parts on the dial of the unique haven’t transitioned to the Fiftysix, the presence of a box-type crystal rising excessive above the bezel evokes the classic reference 6073 together with the sector dials that had been standard within the 1950s.
Fiftysix Full Calendar
That is essentially the most full mannequin within the Fiftysix line-up with day, date and month indications, in addition to a precision moon section requiring no adjustment for 122 years. Easier and cheaper than an annual or perpetual calendar, full or triple calendars full 31-day cycles and require an adjustment 5 instances a yr. Given the interesting structure of an entire calendar, having to regulate the watch 5 instances a yr will not be such a frightening activity in spite of everything.
The structure corresponds to the standard structure of triple calendars: two home windows for the day of the week and month beneath 12 o’clock and an aperture for the phases of the moon at 6 o’clock. The date is displayed by a further gold arrow-tipped hand and positioned on the dial’s outer perimeter, a format that’s often known as a pointer date.
Matching the luxurious 40mm x 11.60mm pink gold case, the utilized Arabic numerals are additionally made kind pink gold as are the baton hour markers. Underscoring its modern character, the baton hour markers and the hour and minute fingers are handled with luminescent materials. The hallmark Fiftysix sector dial, with its white and black railway observe within the centre, gives a refreshing 1950s counterpoint to the basic brown and gold background. The enticing shade of brown chosen for the dial is adorned with sunburst and snailed finishings.
An in-house computerized 2460QCI/1 calibre powers the Full Calendar with Hallmark of Geneva certification. Just like the lugs, the openworked 22ok pink gold rotor traces the type of the Maltese cross.
Fast info: Fiftysix Full Calendar Ref. 4000E/000R-B065 – 40mm x 11.6mm – 18ok pink gold – box-type sapphire crystal over dial, sapphire crystal caseback – 30m water-resistance – brown dial with utilized pink gold numerals and markers – in-house calibre 2460 QCL/1 computerized – 28,800vph – 40h energy reserve – Hallmark of Geneva licensed – hours, minutes, central seconds, full calendar, precision moon section – brown calfskin with beige stitching and 18ok rose gold pin buckle – EUR 36,400
Representing the only mannequin within the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix line-up, the Self-Winding is a three-hand-and-date watch combining classic styling with modern particulars. With its clear, easy structure, this computerized finest incarnates the classic aspirations of the Fiftysix household. Like all Fiftysix fashions, the dial shows a sector structure with an outer minutes/seconds observe and an inside black and white railway-style observe. Opaline, sunburst and snailed finishes enrich the sepia-brown dial set off with utilized gold Arabic numerals and markers. A discreet date window at three o’clock and touches of luminescent materials on the fingers and markers verify its operate as a each day beater.
The gleaming 18ok pink gold case has a 40mm diameter and a peak of 9.6mm. Nonetheless, the motion will not be an in-house calibre and isn’t licensed by the Hallmark of Geneva seal. This resolution drew a lot criticism in its day by those that thought of an outsourced motion a ‘betrayal’ of the model’s ideas. In impact, the watch is provided with a motion produced by ValFleurier (a part of Richemont Group) and based mostly on a Cartier ébauche. Working at 28,000vph, the motion can retailer 48 hours of energy. In line with the wonderful finishings all through, the motion can also be fantastically adorned with Côtes de Genève and options an openworked 22ok pink gold rotor formed like a Maltese cross.
Fast info: Fiftysix Self-Winding Ref. 4600E/000R-B576 – 40mm x 9.6mm – 18ok pink gold – box-type sapphire crystal over dial, sapphire crystal caseback – 30m water-resistance – brown dial with utilized pink gold numerals and markers – computerized calibre 1326 – 28,800vph – 48h energy reserve – hours, minutes, central seconds and date – brown calfskin strap with 18ok rose gold pin buckle – EUR 20,000
The successful mixture of delectable brown dials and opulent pink gold instances is tough to beat. Nonetheless, the inherent threat on this mixture is that the watches may discover themselves sitting in a extra grandiose, formal class that may alienate the very crowd that the Fiftysix is making an attempt to please. Luckily, the classic vibe and sure design options, just like the sector dial, the applying of luminescent materials and above all, the extra informal and laid-back presence of a calfskin strap with beige stitching, handle to floor these fashions and make them appropriate for on a regular basis put on.
Since we’re coping with Vacheron Constantin, the idea of “entry-level” must be understood in stylistic and never financial phrases. In spite of everything, the only metal mannequin begins at EUR 12,300 and costs ascend to EUR 128,000 for a gold tourbillon. The overarching classic vibe of the Fiftysix assortment is clearly designed to seduce a youthful era who admire the model however don’t desire a basic watch that their father or grandfather would possibly endorse.
Extra particulars at Vacheron Constantin.