Seven years in the past, in October 2013, Nomos Glashütte launched its first serial wristwatches housed in gold instances. Lux and Lambda every featured brand-new treasured metallic instances – one even in an odd-for-Nomos tonneau kind – and new shapes, colours, and even actions. Till that time limit, the Glashütte model was recognized for the superb price-performance ratio of its steel-encased watches.
Lux and Lambda had been experimental – which was sensational for a model that doesn’t a lot look after experiments. Discovering a level of success with them, Nomos has stored them within the assortment to this present day.
Because the city of Glashütte honors 175th anniversary of watchmaking in 2020, Nomos fortunately couldn’t let the chance go by to have fun regardless of all that this 12 months has introduced down. The model organized a small occasion with native visitors in a constructing in Glashütte that it had simply freshly acquired and renovated.
Whereas the gist of the occasion was to debate and have fun all that Glashütte has achieved in 175 years, the star of the present was the brand new set of three celebratory variations of the Lambda in a brand new (and really acceptable for this 12 months) stainless-steel case.
Placing the audacity of the Nomos Lambda design in historic context
There is no such thing as a mistaking how audacious this design was in 2013 in comparison with the output of Nomos Glashütte’s earlier 22 years’ price of designs. Nomos had all the time stayed in a extremely reasonably priced stainless-steel value vary, specializing in a price-performance ratio that the majority different manufacturers had and nonetheless have a reasonably arduous time matching.
The unique 4 fashions – Tangente, Tetra, Orion, and Ludwig – had been designed on the bottom of unique Bauhaus-style fashions from the 1920s. Shade solely turned a daily addition to Nomos traces after the appearance of the colourful Tetras (again then known as the “Women Tetra”) and the restricted Wempe 100 particular version of 2004.
Multi-award-winning industrial designer Simon Husslein was answerable for Lambda’s sculptural case and Berlin professor of design Axel Kufus designed the dial with the dominant energy reserve indication again within the day.
The unique Lambda was a bit bigger than the brand new celebratory mannequin at 42 x eight.9 mm; this new 40.5 x 7 mm dimension hits my candy spot and will definitely hit most individuals’s, I think about.
A really particular Nomos motion: DUW 1001
The motion is the actual treasure right here for a connoisseur of mechanical watches. And just like the rebooted dial and case of the celebratory Lambda, the motion additionally wants a bit historic rationalization.
The 12 months was 2004 and Nomos founder Roland Schwertner was collaborating closely along with his greatest retailer, Hellmut Wempe, the third-generation proprietor of the Wempe chain (Kim-Eva, now in cost, is the fourth technology), who was doing gangbuster enterprise in Germany with Nomos watches because the entry-level level of his 25 shops (together with New York, the place Wempe remained the one level of sale in america for many years).
To kick off Wempe’s own timepiece label and have fun a lot of Wempe-related actions corresponding to inaugurating the Glashütte observatory as a manufacturing workshop and chronometer-testing facility (the one one presently in Germany), the 2 created a Nomos-designed and –manufactured luxurious watch. This was earlier than Wempe established its personal Glashütte-based workshops and had the capability for such a mission.
The crown jewel of the Wempe assortment known as Chronometerwerke was the 25-piece restricted version tourbillon designed by Nomos’ then head watchmaker and handmade in Nomos’ workshop. A restricted version, tonneau-shaped, hand-wound mannequin with related visuals however with out tourbillon was launched on the similar time.
The Lambda motion is a detailed relative of that Wempe-branded motion of 2004. Mirko Heyne, who was additionally answerable for each the Nomos computerized and the world time actions, marvelously transposed the beliefs belonging to Glashütte’s artwork of watchmaking into the luxurious, clear, and, sure, opulent Caliber DUW 1001.
This very finely completed motion is regulated to chronometer-level precision, although it doesn’t include an official certificates (which might have simply raised its value by €500 to €1,000). Throughout the occasion, Nomos took care to level out this accuracy as most Nomos actions aren’t regulated to that tight precision.
As that is Nomos’ “haute horlogerie” motion, it additionally incorporates a number of parts and inventive attributes from the area corresponding to a three-quarter plate, typical ending patterns and ornament, six screw-mounted chatons, and the hand-engraved stability cock, which boasts an attention-grabbing element so very typical of Nomos: the place different manufacturers engrave the stability cock with a floral sample, trying intently right here we discover that Nomos’ hand-engraved sample performs with the phrases “mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (“made with love in Glashütte”).
Which brings me to Nomos’ actions. Many individuals don’t notice that every one of Nomos’ actions are manufacture actions (see How Does Nomos Glashütte Make A Beautiful Watch With Manufacture Movement For Under $3,000?).
Sure, this model started its fashionable life utilizing the Peseux 7001 as its core caliber (a svelte, hand-wound motion that completely match the unisex model of the unique 4 fashions), however labored very arduous to commerce out elements for in-house ones and improve different parts because it went alongside. At present, all Nomos calibers – which have been named for the Greek alphabet for the reason that creation of the Nomos computerized motion – are their very own. With the introduction of the primary Lambda in 2013, the caliber names modified once more to underscore Nomos’ in-house manufacturing capabilities: Lambda is powered by Caliber DUW 1001. DUW stands for “Deutsche Uhrenwerke,” a reputation that performs on Glashütte’s previous.
Nomos Glashütte Lambda stainless-steel restricted editions
The brand new stainless-steel Lambda is proscribed to only 175 items in every of three dial colours – all of that are energetic and beautiful within the metallic. Whereas I usually gravitate towards blue dials, the extra I checked out, performed with, and tried these trio of lovelies on, the extra I spotted I had fallen in love with the black-dial mannequin.
All three dials are lacquered, however in such a means that they appear endlessly deep (which makes them terribly arduous to photograph as properly). This depth impact is enhanced by the curvature of the very giant sapphire crystal, which spans the whole thing of the entrance, because the Lambda seems to don’t have any bezel.
For me, buying and selling out the valuable gold for the extra everyday-friendly stainless-steel was a genius transfer, making the watch simpler to put on and really seemingly simpler to amass. However provided that you hurry.
For extra info, please go to www.nomos-glashuette.com/en/watches/new-releases/lambda-175-years-watchmaking-glashuette.
Fast Information Nomos Glashütte Lambda – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
Case: 40.5 x 7 mm, stainless-steel
Motion: manually wound Nomos Caliber DUW 1001, 84-hour energy reserve, three Hz/21,600 vph, twin spring barrels, 6 polished and screw-mounted chatons, swan-neck superb adjustment, hand-engraved stability cock
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; energy reserve indication
Limitation: 175 items in every colour
Value: €5,653 (Germany)