The luxurious sports activities watch, perceive the sporty-chic metal watch with an built-in bracelet, is doubtless the most popular class on the present market. Evidently most manufacturers have to enter this race to realize the center of fanatics. H. Moser & Cie, the marginally irreverent impartial watchmaker, did so in early 2020 with a extremely private watch, the fluid and curvy Streamliner. First launched in a sleek limited edition chronograph, adopted by a time-only model later this year, it made fairly an entrance on the scene. Now, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph comes again with a typically-Moser “Funky Blue” fumé dial and within the everlasting assortment. And it seems to be beautiful, as you may see in our video assessment.
Skinny but angular, luxurious but executed in essentially the most commoner materials, modern but advanced, the posh sports activities watch is an odd class, but a extremely profitable one. When getting into the marketplace for a sporty-chic mannequin with built-in bracelet, Moser did issues with a unique strategy although, bringing a design of its personal. The Streamliner, the model’s imaginative and prescient of such a watch, doesn’t mimic its competitor and a number of the established fashions (Royal Oak, Nautilus or Abroad). The principle level is indicated by its identify; Streamliner. Whereas all three talked about watches are sharp, have raised and overly-designed bezels, H. Moser & Cie. has opted for one thing with tender curves and fluidity of the proportions. And whereas it stills looks like a luxurious sports activities watch, it actually has a novel character.
In comparison with the watch we’ve seen on January 2020, the inaugural model of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph with a gray dial and restricted to 100 items, the mannequin we’re at the moment isn’t exhibiting main evolutions – and that’s for the great of the watch. What’s essential listed below are colors, and availability. The recipe used on the primary batch of gray watches continues to be there – one thing that was acknowledged by the business at the GPHG 2020, as this watch acquired the prize for the most effective chronograph.
The case of the Streamliner watch is, as mentioned above, distinctive and has an imposing character. The fluid strains, with mild curves and no protruding angles, recollects quick trains from the 1920s and 1930s – the so-called Streamline design. Way more natural than its rivals, the case may be very rewarding and stuffed with particulars, but much less aggressive. The cushion form of the central half is collaborating within the compactness of the watch. Whereas the diameter, at 42.3mm, is nothing however small, the watch is extraordinarily snug and wears smaller than numbers would recommend. The lug-to-lug dimension is about 45mm, as such smaller than most 39-40mm watches. As you may see on my small wrist (16.5cm), the watch is compact and properly balanced.
The case is just not solely very properly formed by additionally enormously executed. The highest surfaces are all finely brushed, with a radial sun-ray sample on prime to observe the curvature of the case. The edges are extra advanced, with a mixture of two polished bands and a recessed straight brushed space, which encapsulates the pushers – at 2 and 10 o’clock – and the crown at four o’clock. The case is topped by a barely domed and bevelled sapphire crystal and is waterproof to 120m – and we’re speaking dynamic WR, for the reason that chronograph might be activated underwater. Altogether, the case may be very properly proportioned and executed. The peak, at 12.1mm, stays below management for an computerized chronograph.
Collaborating within the fluid, natural look of the watch is the built-in metal bracelet. As soon as once more, no sharp angles however a succession of curvy and tender hyperlinks, combining brushed surfaces and chic polished bevels. The bracelet is among the most nice on the pores and skin I’ve not too long ago skilled. It’s closed by a triple-blade folding clasp. Once more, the execution is neat and exact.
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is just not solely completely different for its case but in addition for its show. At first, you’ll hardly think about this watch to be a chronograph, however merely a time-only mannequin. Moser has pushed the streamline, modern idea additionally on the show. This till you’ll activate the chronograph and uncover two central fingers, one for the seconds and one for the minutes. The principle fingers, hours and minutes, are additionally relatively particular. They’re made with Globolight, a ceramic-based materials containing Tremendous-LumiNova. The minuterie is authentic, with its 1970s racing-style and just one utilized marker might be seen, an outsized 60. The inside flange has a tachymeter scale, to bolster the automotive look of the watch.
The principle novelty for this 12 months’s Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is the color and ornament of the dial. In lieu of the straight brushed gray dial discovered on the inaugural mannequin, this 2020 version goes for the standard, soon-to-be-iconic funky blue color with fumé impact. The dial has a sun-ray brushed sample with the centre having a lighter color. The crimson seconds hand provides a contact of sportiness and boldness to this mannequin.
Contained in the case of this chronograph Streamliner is a powerful motion, actually one of the vital modern chronograph calibres of the final 10 years, produced by Agenhor. Dubbed calibre HMC 902, that is the third iteration of the mind-blowing Agengraph, the central chronograph imagined by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Following the Fabergé and Singer Reimagined variations, the Moser iteration is the first-ever central chronograph with flyback operate.
A whole re-engineering of the chronograph, the Agengraph redefined basic ideas which have remained unchanged for many years. The calibre HMC 902 chronograph mechanism is pushed by a column wheel. Constructed on two ranges, it incorporates a cam storing vitality for a complete minute earlier than releasing it exactly when a feeler-spindle falls to generate an instantaneous leap of the minute hand. The coupling combines the most effective of the vertical and horizontal clutch. It’s made horizontally, which requires much less area. But the connection is made by friction wheels with no tooth, similar to with vertical clutches – thus avoiding any unintended leap when the chronograph is activated. A tulip-shaped spring permits the chronograph to be triggered or launched.
Winding is bi-directional and the 2 barrels can retailer as much as 54 hours of energy reserve. One of many specificities of this computerized motion is to have the rotor positioned dial-side, guaranteeing an uncluttered view by way of the caseback on this intricate 434-part motion. As you’ll anticipate, the ending is top-notch.
Value & availability
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Computerized Funky Blue (ref. 6902-1201) is launched within the everlasting assortment, so it isn’t a restricted version anymore. But, as a result of complexity of its motion, it received’t be out there in tons of of piece a 12 months. But, it’s reassuring to see that the watch might be ordered as an everyday mannequin.
This new Funky Blue mannequin will retail for a similar worth because the gray model, which means CHF 39,900. For extra data, please go to h-moser.com.