Whereas it has by no means been a secret that Grand Seiko was able to crafting a few of the best and most exact luxurious watches – items which can be clearly on par with one of the best Swiss producers – the idea of innovation at GS is much less broadly recognized. Just lately, the model unveiled an idea motion, the T0 Tourbillon Constant Force, a correct demonstration of savoir-faire. Additionally, Grand Seiko unveiled its Calibre 9SA5, which was filled with improvements concerning its unprecedented escapement. First unveiled in gold, this highly effective engine now is available in a chrome steel restricted version, with the brand new SLGH003.
Whereas the SLGH002 was definitely a extremely engaging watch, not solely it got here in a extremely restricted run of 100 watches solely, nevertheless it was additionally removed from accessible, being encased in 18ok gold and priced at EUR 45,000. We knew again then that this watch was there as a showcase piece, with a view to announce the model’s new calibre, the Hello-Beat automated 9SA5, with a revolutionary geometry for its escapement, which represents a complete new era of Grand Seiko mechanical actions. Right this moment, the model unveils this engine in a much more accessible piece, now cased in metal.
This new SLGH003 is just not differing a lot from its gold counterpart by way of design, because the case reutilizes the identical proportions and shapes. As such, we discover again the 40mm diameter and affordable 11.7mm thickness, in addition to a brand new general design with a vertically brushed bezel, curved casebands and enormously designed lugs with an alternation of brushed accents and (Zaratsu) polished sides. This watch is a part of the Heritage assortment, which means that it each displays the previous of Grand Seiko in addition to being sportier, therefore why it’s worn on a metal bracelet. The latter is supplied with a folding clasp, with a gold insert.
The dial of this new SLGH003 can be an identical to its gold predecessor concerning the fingers and indexes, which introduced a brand new design for GS. These are barely bolder than traditional and have a triangular profile, with a central recessed line. The dial is sunray-brushed and executed in Grand Seiko blue, the color of all watches within the 60th-anniversary assortment. It options colored accents; gold for the brand; purple for the seconds hand.
The place the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Restricted Version SLGH003 actually makes the distinction with different, already well-powered GS fashions, is on the motion’s facet. Geared up with the brand new calibre 9SA5, the model launched a model new geometry for the escapement, named Twin Impulse, which differs from what’s in use within the traditional lever escapement. As you possibly can see, the escape wheel has a star form with eight arms, as a substitute of a wheel with tooth.
The principle idea behind this Grand Seiko Twin Impulse Escapement is that the locking and impulse features are dissociated – an answer much like the Audemars Piguet or the Omega Co-Axial escapements, for instance. In a single path, energy is transmitted on to the steadiness (clockwise), because the curler receives impulse instantly on its jewel. Within the different path, it receives an oblique impulse by way of the pallet fork, as in a conventional escapement. Due to this dissociation of the locking and impulse features, with friction occurring in just one path, the escapement is extra environment friendly (much less friction means much less power required) and extra wear-resistant. Calibre 9SA5’s new escapement works along with a brand new free-sprung steadiness that’s extra immune to shock and friction and retains its precision for longer durations.
This modern escapement is utilized in a motion that can be completely new, with a slimmer profile (5.18mm), extra energy storage (two barrels for 80h), outfitted with a transversal bridge (for extra resistance), with high-frequency (5Hz or 36,000vph), leading to an accuracy of +5 to -Three seconds per day. The motion itself can be very pleasantly formed and designed, with extra attraction and superior ornament – bridges are properly curved with polished bevels on the sides and extra refined wave-patterns on the flat surfaces.
Availability and worth
The Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Restricted Version SLGH003 with Calibre 9SA5 might be a restricted version of 1,000 items. it will likely be accessible at Grand Seiko Boutiques and chosen retailers worldwide as of December 2020 and priced at EUR 10,000.
Extra particulars at www.grand-seiko.com.