Followers of the long-lasting Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso know that an “about face” supplies two watches in a single, every with its personal separate identification. Now there’s a brand new double-faced famous person on the town: the De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon.
De Bethune co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet had been ruminating over any such look ahead to fairly some time, certain that he would be capable to analysis one thing new and unprecedented from it, thereby providing a brand new interpretation of an outdated thought.
“We’re all confronted with a number of features of our character and the varied universes round us, simply because the artist is confronted with the completely different instructions by which he wish to take his work,” Flageollet stated. “For me, this watch is a method of connecting my numerous types of attraction to the completely different aspects of magnificence and in addition of proposing an object that’s thought-provoking with regard to the long run paths we could select to take.”
Flageollet’s aim was to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two units of name “DNA” on the identical watch. He additionally wished to make use of De Bethune’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent (extra on that under).
Two sides of the De Bethune DB Sort of Two Tourbillon
The entrance of the watch is modern and trendy, the best way that so a lot of this boutique model’s followers like to see it, that includes De Bethune’s now-iconic delta-shaped bridge à la theDB28 collection. Attention-grabbing is that the Star-Trek-like asymmetrical deltoid bridge is gone right here: the brand new bridge taking its place is completely symmetrical and centrally positioned, an isosceles triangle exuding calm concord.
Flageollet selected to alter this very seen bridge to distinguish it from the DB28 assortment. And when you do see a household resemblance, it’s clear that this can be a completely different watch. Mission achieved.
Whereas function-wise the tourbillon facet “solely” shows hours and minutes, it additionally consists of De Bethune’s quick rotating 30-second tourbillon regulator at 6 o’clock.
The De Bethune tourbillon differs from many others for a number of causes. For one, its cage makes one full revolution in simply 30 seconds somewhat than the same old 60 seconds. For an additional, it beats at a high-speed frequency of 5 Hz (36,000). The De Bethune tourbillon additionally options the lightest cage available on the market, coming in at a mere zero.18 gram, regardless of comprising 63 particular person parts.
This 28th caliber by the boutique model additionally incorporates self-regulating twin spring barrels particularly designed to reduce friction and effectively switch most power – and presents a full 5 days’ value of energy reserve.
The designers labored exhausting right here to exude a sense of latest design and quantity by utilizing numerous shapes, interspersing matte and shiny polishes and a wide range of ranges.
The flip facet is extra classical – if something that De Bethune produces can ever actually be known as classical – with its time-only show together with central seconds. The middle part reveals a finely guilloche floor surrounded by numeral fonts already seen within the DB8 and DB10 collections.
De Bethune DB Sort of Two Tourbillon: the way it works
To alter the facet that’s dealing with up, the watch have to be faraway from the wrist. The case can then be freely moved utilizing a finger to rotate it. For some cool head imagery, consider the best way an acrobat flips round on a trapeze.
The DB29 case with its hunter case again and invisible hinge lent itself completely to this activity – although now with its crown positioned at 12 o’clock (or 6 o’clock, relying on which facet is up) between the brand new floating lugs.
Very, very barely redesigned to accommodate this case – the modifications are most likely seen to nobody however Flageollet– the floating lugs mechanism lends itself to the case pivot. A patented attachment system permits the lugs to mechanically alter to the scale of the wearer’s wrist.
The rotating mechanism works with springs and includes 28 parts manufactured in both surgical chrome steel or titanium for higher resistance to shocks and put on. A cam and a small notch guarantee excellent alignment of the case with the floating lugs. It doesn’t transfer round on the wrist.
It’s additionally value noting that regardless of it exhibiting the time on two sides, the case is just one.four mm increased (and zero.2 mm smaller in diameter) than the DB28XP Tourbillon that got here out in 2020. That tourbillon was a slimmer model of the earlier DB28 tourbillon.
Buying and selling the seen tourbillon on one dial for central seconds on the opposite is a very fascinating technical problem. Although the time is identical on each side, the case is the wrong way up when flipped to the reverse facet and the time with out additional gearing would rotate counterclockwise. The crown is at 12 o’clock when the DB28-looking face is up and at 6 o’clock when the extra traditional face is exhibiting.
A fancy system of gears and pinions permits the arms to show within the appropriate path, whichever facet is dealing with up. Flageollet defined that he needed to reverse and reposition the movement work gear prepare on the opposite facet, an train that additionally required mastery of substances prepare design and manufacturing in order to keep away from play within the arms.
That is one difficult two-faced character that I can actually get behind!
For extra info, please go to www.debethune.ch/en/collections/db-kind-two-1.
Fast Details De Bethune DB Sort of Two Tourbillon
Case: reversible in grade 5 titanium, 42.eight x 9.5 mm; floating lugs, crown at 6/12 o’clock
Motion: manually wound Caliber DB2579 with 30-second tourbillon with titanium stability wheel and white gold inserts, silicon escape wheel, self-regulating twin spring barrels, silicon escape wheel, 5 Hz/36,000 vph frequency, five-day energy reserve
Capabilities: twin hours, minutes; seconds on one facet
Limitation: 10 items
Value: $250,000 / 215,000 Swiss francs