That is it, the massive one for Rolex this 12 months, the brand new Submariner. Undoubtedly one of the most important watches of the last century, one of the crucial iconic sports activities watches ever, a watch that has transcended its diving instrument performance and is now thought to be a design and standing image recognised by most (and never simply watch fans)… That’s proper, for 2020, there’s a brand new Sub. And sure, the evolution is delicate. At this time, we check out the brand new and long-awaited (which we hinted at in our predictions earlier this year) Rolex Submariner 41mm reference 124060, which we had the chance to see within the metallic proper earlier than its official launch.
Earlier than shifting into our early evaluation of the brand new Rolex Submariner 124060, we encourage you to take a look at our in-depth collection of articles retracing the historical past of the Submariner – part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4.
This 12 months is the 12 months of the Submariner for Rolex. And it’s a particular one certainly. When updating one in all its fashions, the crown tends to maneuver regularly; first, it introduces a valuable metallic model, adopted by a two-tone mannequin and at last the metal model. Not this time. Rolex has renewed your entire Submariner assortment in 2020, with the current no-date Submariner 124060 but additionally an array of Submariner Date, with new colored bezels and a number of supplies (metal, white gold and Rolesor). However extra on that in one other article. Now, let’s give attention to the principle spotlight, the traditional no-date Submariner 124060 in metal with black dial and bezel, the successor of the reference 114060.
Born in 1953/54, the Rolex Submariner began life as a real diver’s instrument, a watch created with professionals in thoughts. As we confirmed you in our collection of articles, though the evolutions are actually essential, the bottom idea of the Submariner remained the identical and the design codes have been at all times revered.
An early Submariner and a late technology mannequin share a number of widespread traits, which went a good distance in reinforcing the recognition of this watch. At this time the Rolex Submariner is greater than only a dive watch. It’s a cult object, an icon of design, a watch that transcends the group of collectors. It’s, no doubt, one of the crucial well-known watches ever created and its diving capacities, regardless that uncompromised, have grow to be by some means much less related within the current context.
The 2020 replace is delicate and restrained. At first, you’ll hardly spot the variations between the brand new 124060 and the older 114060. The brand new mannequin is extra of an evolution than a revolution. That is Rolex in any case. Nonetheless, virtually every little thing within the newest technology has been remodelled, redesigned, up to date or modified. And as you’ll see under, the satan is within the particulars.
The case of the Rolex Submariner 41mm
As indicated within the identify of the watch, the main replace relating to the case considerations the diameter. For a number of many years, the Sub has measured 40mm throughout. But, a lot of clients have been asking for an elevated diameter and this 12 months their requests have been met with the 124060 and its 41mm diameter. A minimal replace for certain, nevertheless, the message is evident.
Past the elevated dimension of the watch, there are various new issues to see within the case of this new Submariner 41mm, most of them regarding shapes and proportions. One of the crucial attribute options of the earlier technology of Submariner was its so-called “tremendous case”, with a squarish total form because of the giant, strong lugs that just about comply with the road of the casebands. In the identical vein as a number of different up to date Rolex watches, including the 43mm Sea-Dweller, the “tremendous case” is gone and the brand new 124060 options extra tapered lugs, that are thinner and extra angled.
The second evolution relating to the proportions considerations the lug width, which has been elevated from 20mm previously to 21mm on the Submariner 124060 (these new proportions and design additionally concern the Submariner Date fashions). Lastly, to present extra consistency to the design, the crown guards have additionally been redesigned, and at the moment are extra angled than previously.
The peak of the case stays virtually the identical, round 12.5mm. Altogether, these updates create a watch that’s extra balanced, barely extra elegant and, surprisingly, that feels a bit extra compact on the wrist regardless of the elevated diameter.
The case of the 2020 Submariner, as you’ll guess from a contemporary Rolex, is constructed from Oystersteel – the interior identify for 904L chrome steel. It’s completed principally with brushed surfaces, whereas the edges are polished. The crown is a so-called Triplock and the caseback remains to be strong metal and screwed. On prime sits a flat sapphire crystal, which doesn’t function anti-reflective coating – the norm for Rolex, and being flat, this isn’t too distracting. The case is, as regular, water resistant to 300m or 1,000ft. And the execution, meeting and ending are on par with all Rolex fashions… merely wonderful.
The dial and bezel
Let’s get straight to the purpose, that is the place the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41mm reference 124060 doesn’t evolve. Dial and bezel are virtually an identical to the earlier Ceramic technology. Sorry for these anticipating a purple depth charge or some evolutions: this isn’t taking place. The earlier technology of Rolex Submariners was already absolutely outfitted with the model’s newest applied sciences and supplies, together with the shiny lacquered dial, the white gold utilized indexes and palms in addition to the ceramic bezel. All of those components are reincorporated on the Submariner 41mm Ref. 124060.
Beginning with the bezel, we’ve now a barely bigger diameter – to be in keeping with the elevated diameter. The unidirectional bezel is made from chrome steel with a knurled edge. The insert is made from black Cerachrom – the interior identify for ceramic. The floor is polished and reflective, but additionally scratch-resistant. The 60-minute scale stays the identical as earlier fashions, with a mixture of batons and numerals for the tenth, in addition to exact commencement for the primary 15 minutes – essential when diving.
The graduations are obtained by platinum PVD coating, giving the numerals and scale an opulent look – the identical course of was already used on the previous fashions. The bezel’s rotation operates with 120 clicks and feels, as anticipated, extraordinarily exact and clean on the identical time – it oozes high quality and robustness. A luminous pearl circled with 18ok white gold is current at 12 o’clock.
The dial of the Submariner 41mm reference 124060 witnesses no main evolution both. It retains the enduring mixture of triangular, rectangular and round markers – which vastly help consulting the time at midnight. In the identical vein, we discover the Mercedes hour hand and the straight minute hand with a sharp tip. One factor to notice is that palms have been barely reworked. The minute hand is now longer (it touches the minute observe now) and has a wider luminescent insert. The Mercedes hour hand can also be barely wider than previously. The seconds hand retains its lollipop profile, with a luminous dot. All the weather are executed in polished 18ok white gold and generously full of Chromalight – Rolex’s personal luminous, blue-glowing luminescent materials. The markers and palms are actually as giant as previously, which means that the “maxi dial” structure has been retained. Nonetheless, because of the additional 1mm, the dial feels (a bit) extra open.
The Crown, Rolex emblem and “Oyster Perpetual” mentions stay printed in white at 12 o’clock, whereas the four traces of textual content of the earlier model have been saved at 6 o’clock. The principle evolution, which was already seen on lately revamped Rolex watches, is the “Swiss Made” emblem with a small crown at 6 o’clock.
Whereas fully in keeping with previous fashions, the dial and bezel of the brand new Submariner 41mm are as soon as once more an indication of savoir-faire, with exact and refined execution. Some would have most well-liked a little bit of eccentricity, a contact of color or smaller indexes/palms, nevertheless, the key phrase right here was consistency.
The Oyster Bracelet & Oysterclasp
As soon as once more very conventional and consensual, the Rolex Submariner 41mm is worn on a typical Rolex Oyster bracelet, a strong and completely built-in Three-link bracelet made from Oystersteel. Being a sports activities/instrument watch, it’s fully brushed on its flat surfaces, whereas the edges are polished – a ending that’s in keeping with that of the case.
As talked about, the lug width has been elevated by 1mm – now 21mm – which means that the bracelet has additionally been redesigned. In reality, its whole profile has grown 1mm, from the lugs to the clasp. As such, it retains the steadiness of older Submariner watches and doesn’t really feel too tapered on the buckle.
Like its predecessor, the Rolex Submariner 41mm is provided with a strong and sensible Oysterclasp, with safety flip-lock and the intelligent Rolex Glidelock extension system. The size of the bracelet might be prolonged by 20mm, in increments of 2mm – making it the most effective fine-adjustment techniques available on the market. It doesn’t function the extension blade “Fliplock”, which is reserved to instrument fashions – Sea-Dweller and Deepsea.
The brand new calibre 3230
The principle replace for the 2020 Submariner 41mm isn’t visible however mechanical. Just like the Day-Date, Datejust, GMT-Master II, Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master, Deepsea, the Submariner will get the model’s new technology of actions, changing its calibre 3130 with the brand new calibre 3230 – a motion that’s put in for the primary time in a watch. As with different fashions with this technology of engines, it includes a lengthy listing of enhancements:
- A brand new sort of escapement, the Chronergy escapement – an optimised model of the Swiss lever escapement. The thickness of the pallet stones has been diminished by half whereas the contact surfaces of the escape wheel tooth have been doubled. The escapement system is not in alignment however barely offset, thus multiplying the lever impact. The escape wheel has a cut-out design to make it lighter and scale back its inertia. The effectivity of the escapement is elevated by 15%. It’s made from nickel-phosphorus and is insensitive to magnetic fields.
- An environment friendly gear prepare, with optimized geometry and high-performance lubricants.
- A high-capacity barrel, with an extended mainspring with out rising the dimensions of the barrel.
- A brand new self-winding module, for a for extra speedy winding of the brand new high-capacity mainspring. The rotor is now rotating on ball-bearings.
This technology of actions has an extended energy reserve – 70 hours vs. 48 hours – and extra stability and resistance in most areas. The blue Parachrom hairspring remains to be current, which means that it stays paramagnetic and intensely proof against shocks. Although not seen, the ornament of the motion has been upgraded too. Lastly, the calibre 3230 is a Superlative Chronometer, which means that it’s chronometer-certified by the COSC and in addition receives an inner certification after casing. The precision is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day, or greater than twice that required of an official chronometer.
On the wrist
As stated, the satan is within the particulars with this new Sub 41mm and the elevated diameter is nearly imperceptible. What adjustments nevertheless is the sensation on the wrist and the look of the watch itself – not massively however sufficient to be seen. With extra tapered lugs, the case beneficial properties in magnificence and compactness, with a nicer feeling on the wrist. The watch seems extra balanced. As such, it by some means goes again to the beloved look of the 5-digit references, such because the 14060 – with the addition of recent technical options and supplies, although.
Right here the watch has been photographed on an 18cm (7 inches) wrist and is certainly on the small aspect for the class, because the earlier mannequin was – and we’re actually not going to complain about that. And for those who’re on the lookout for a bigger Rolex diver, you’ve gotten the choice of the Sea-Dweller 43mm. Being comparatively compact and skinny for a dive watch, the case retains its daily-wear capacities and may simply grow to be a look ahead to a enterprise assembly. The trendy Submariner is unquestionably one of the crucial versatile fashions available on the market.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41mm No-Date Reference 124060 shall be priced at CHF 7,700 – a rise of CHF 200 in comparison with the earlier mannequin. It should quickly be accessible at retailers, nevertheless, anticipate it to be (as regular) fairly onerous to search out. The watch comes with a world five-year assure.
Extra particulars at rolex.com.