The French Navy, or “Marine Nationale”, has been crusing the seven seas since 1626 making it one of many oldest naval forces on the planet. When a watch fan hears the phrases “Marine Nationale” they consider watches and watch straps as a substitute of frigates. Within the latest previous, members of the French Navy used sturdy watches from manufacturers like Tudor, Doxa, and Longines. These are typically collectible watches these days with a traceable and detailed historical past. The YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version watch is just not a reproduction of a classic YEMA. The latest Navygraf marks the beginning of YEMA’s army profession for the reason that firm is now, for the primary time in its historical past, an official companion of the French Navy, becoming a member of the ranks of the aforementioned watches. The brand new watch can also be a little bit of an homage to a colourful and numerous historical past.
With a historical past relationship again to the early 17th century, it’s a good suggestion to focus our scope earlier than we set off on this voyage. Let’s slim our sights to the latest previous, so we will view the YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version watch from the precise perspective. Meaning we’re not going all the best way again to the times of Abraham-Louis Breguet who was named by King Louis XVIII as “Horologer de la Marine” in 1815. As a substitute, our start line is the 20th century when the Marine Nationale issued its personnel with some attention-grabbing watches.
YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version watch
It’s a interval in time when watches had been delivered “head solely” to the French Navy, so with out straps. Sailors — various from crewmen on floor ships to submariners — needed to discover the strap or bracelet of their liking themselves. However extra on that later. Let’s begin with a take a look at the YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version watch — a diving watch made by a French firm to serve in at present’s French Navy.
To know the current we should first look to the previous. Arguably essentially the most well-known watch produced for the French naval pressure was the Tudor Submariner Marine Nationale. However it wasn’t the one watch in use. And that’s as a result of the French Navy purchased watches in bulk — civilian watches they deemed match to be issued to sailors. So while you dive into the historical past books and archives of the French Navy, many watches come to mild: classic Longines watches from the ’50s, Tudors from the ’80s, and, just lately, even Casio G-Shocks to call only a few.
You gained’t get uninterested in this shade rapidly …
The “modus operandi” of the French is kind of opposite to the British. The standard British Rolex Army Submariner is a novel army model of a widely known civilian watch. That large distinction paints a colourful previous. YEMA made good use of it when designing its new Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version. The matte, darkish blue of the dial and 24 hour-bezel recommend YEMA took fairly a while to seek out the precise proper shade. It’s not simply any sort of random blue. It’s a blue that borders on black. It’s a darkish hue that provides the watch a critical look. The French Navy permitted it, which suggests it’s seemingly critical stuff. One factor’s for positive: you gained’t get uninterested in this shade rapidly as is so usually the case with brightly coloured dials.
A bezel constituted of scratch-resistant sapphire
It’s not the primary time a Navygraf has popped up on Fratello watches. Tomas wrote a couple of YEMA from the ’70s he thought-about to be a “low-key gorgeous divers’ watch.” The brand new Navygraf Marine Nationwide GMT Restricted Version can also be low-key due to its reasonable 39×12.85mm 316L metal case. The brushed case with built-in crown guards additionally incorporates a scratch-resistant 2.5mm thick sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown exhibiting the Marine Nationale anchor.
The watch is waterproof to 990 ft (that’s 301.752 meters to be actual). Apparently, the bidirectional 24 hour-bezel is constituted of barely shiny sapphire and never ceramic as you would possibly anticipate when taking a look at it. Blancpain makes use of sapphire within the bezels of its Fifty-Fathoms diving watches, so it’s nothing new, however within the extra modest price-category YEMA operates, utilizing this materials provides the watch a extra unique really feel.
An in-house caliber from the French Jura mountains
Inside the water resistant metal case beats the in-house automated caliber YEMA3000. This motion debuted in 2011. The motion was designed, developed, and assembled by YEMA watchmakers in Morteau, a city that may very well be thought-about as the center of French watchmaking. The city lies within the French a part of the Jura mountains very near the Swiss border and only a few miles away from La Chaux-de-Fonds. The craft of constructing actions is second nature to individuals on this space; true watchmaking know-how runs of their blood. The YEMA3000 is a second-generation in-house caliber that mixes manufacturing simplicity and effectivity that results in a exact and dependable motion at an excellent price-quality ratio.
YEMA3000 is a 29-jewel GMT in-house motion that beats at 4hz.
YEMA3000 is a 29-jewel GMT in-house motion that beats at 4hz. It exhibits the hours, minutes, and seconds. On high of that, there’s a second 24-hour hand and a quick-set date. The ability reserve is 42 hours. You gained’t see any of the motion, although: the motion hides behind a screwed case again embellished with the brand of the Marine Nationale. The phrases “depuis 1626” on the case again are a reminder of the beginning yr of the French navy.
Different latest Marine Nationale impressed watches
Taking a look at that case again with the Marine Nationale emblem, I considered latest watches that got here out carrying that very same identify or the same supply of inspiration. There’s the Longines Heritage Army Marine Nationale from final yr, after all. Longines designed the unique reference 5774 after World Battle II and provided it to the French Navy. It was a petite 33mm watch with an in-house 12.68N guide wind motion. The opposite watch with a hyperlink to the Marine Nationale is the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue. This 2020-watch relies on the Tudor Submariner ref. 94010 Marine Nationale. That mannequin is a blue “Snowflake” collectors adore (and with good cause).
YEMA did provide its Superman diving watches to the — look forward to it — French Airforce.
Since YEMA is French, French frogmen utilizing YEMA diving watches wouldn’t be an excessive amount of of a shock. Surprisingly the navy archives don’t point out a YEMA Navygraf. Nonetheless, YEMA did provide its Superman diving watches to the — look forward to it — French Airforce. Because the ’70s YEMA has provided watches to completely different branches of the air pressure and fighter pilots and Helicopter Rescue Divers use them additionally. In 2020, YEMA once more turned the official companion of the French Air Drive. Though not the one one since Tudor was additionally chosen by the French Navy to change into an official companion.
Outfitting the French maritime forces
Possibly the Air Drive put in a very good phrase for YEMA, as a result of, as of this yr, the model can also be an official companion to the French Navy. The Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version meets the particular necessities of the French maritime forces. And it proudly shows the French Navy emblem at 6 o’clock. That emblem is a reasonably dominant graphic factor because it additionally capabilities because the hour marker at 6 o’clock. The truth is, it’s a bit too dominant for my private style, but it surely definitely hammers house its message. 4 variations of the Navygraf Marine Nationale can be found to each military employees and the general public. Other than the GMT, there’s the selection between quartz and automated three-handers, and there’s additionally a 34mm model to adapt to the smallest of sailors.
… YEMA additionally put in a parachute strap within the particular restricted version field.
The YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version watch is a useful instrument. A beneficiant quantity of Tremendous-LumiNova on the palms, indexes, and bezel markings make it very simple to learn in darkish circumstances. The brushed 316L metal case and bracelet give it a correct instrument watch look. It comes with a safe lock and a divers’ extension on the clasp.
Pleasingly, YEMA additionally included a parachute strap within the particular restricted version field. That’s a pleasant (considerably surprising) nod to the historical past of Marine Nationale timepieces that had been issued with neither a bracelet nor strap. The Marine Nationale divers of yesteryear used elastic webbing minimize from parachutes to make a single go watch strap. Historical past repeats itself due to YEMA and that’s not a foul factor in any respect on this case.
YEMA Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version watch; conclusion and worth
The large query is: do you wish to put on one thing that has been or one thing that is? The Longines and the Tudor are fashionable watches for civilians based mostly on army watches of the previous. The Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version is a contemporary military-spec watch that civilians may purchase. It’s all in regards to the story you favor. And if that isn’t sufficient, let me provide the costs of the completely different marine Nationwide tales: the Longines prices €1,940, the Tudor on a bracelet €three.470, and the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Restricted Version €1,049. Make up your thoughts, sailor!
The timepieces might be out there for pre-order from Might 6, 2021, on the YEMA web site. Additionally, while you purchase any Navygraf Marine Nationale, YEMA makes a donation to the NGOs supported by the French Navy. The GMT Restricted Version is priced at €1,049.
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