It’s not a newsflash to report that I like Nezumi. Nonetheless, as a lot as I am keen on the model’s core kinds, not the whole lot this Swedish outfit produces hits the mark for me. Most not too long ago, I reviewed the DLC-gold plated Nezumi Baleine automated and, whereas I preferred it, discovered myself craving a return to the retro simplicity of the mecaquartz chronograph format that, in my view, is what makes the model stand out from its friends. Nicely, though I had nothing to do with it, I received my want! The Nezumi Tonnerre Chronograph hits the cabinets right now and is a breezy, seasonal various to the present providing and is available in an all-new dimension for the model…
If you set your stall out as a mecaquartz specialist (as Nezumi did with its inaugural launch half a decade in the past), your model will stay and die on the design of its wares. Typography, spacing, structure, colour… Whereas this stuff are integral to any model (or at the least ought to be), it issues all of the extra when that and that alone is what distinguishes you from the gang. And the nice cruelty of design is how the slightest shade or shift could be the distinction between triumph and disaster.
I’ve at all times loved the overall structure of Nezumi’s 40mm mecaquartz chronographs. I believe the sizing is spot on. The proportions of the dial to the bezel to the case have at all times appeared extremely comfy. The watches look pure. Amazingly, though it’s the kind of factor individuals fail to see, that sort of simple allure is difficult to come back by. The quantity of effort that goes into guaranteeing each micron is simply so to realize a outcome that gained’t instantly jar is staggering. Taking that successful system and porting it to a smaller, 38mm case (with a 45mm lug-to-lug), carried with it no assure of success. So did the model pull it off or not? Let’s discover out…
The Nezumi Tonnerre
Straight out of the field, I seen one thing was totally different concerning the Tonnerre. Instantly, I recognized its all-brushed end, which felt very new. Certain, the Corbeau and a few variations of the Voiture have been solely brushed earlier than, however the overwhelmingness of that end was at all times tempered by the contrasting bezels. Right here, the Tonnerre had nowhere to cover. Just like the Loews before it, it has a wholly metal exterior. In contrast to the Loews, nevertheless, is the very fact it’s brushed, smaller, and makes use of a telemeter scale across the exterior of the dial versus a extra conventional tachymeter.
The variations don’t cease there. Whereas each the Loews and the Nezumi Tonnerre share sure traits like raised, polished hour markers, hour and minute hand design, and hourly luminous lume pips, there are a ton of modifications. Maybe most clearly, the Loews was a two sub-dial structure, whereas the Tonnerre is a triple. The seconds hand of the Loews was the identical because the early Voiture fingers, with the “N” counterpoise and burnt orange colour.
Many fingers make mild work
Right here, the hand is a straight-sided wedge, color-matched to the turquoise accent of the dial and tipped in white. The sub-dial fingers are additionally totally different. On the Loews, the fingers had sq. parts across the pivots. This, to me, at all times appeared very “1970s” and was not one thing I fawned over. Right here, nevertheless, the fingers are a lot easier. The going seconds hand (the little ticker at 6 o’clock) is in the identical shade of ecru because the dial. It concurrently contrasts with its sub-dial’s turquoise backing and ties in with the remainder of the dial. The 24-hour indicator hand and the 60-minute counter (at 9 o’clock) are each black on this mannequin, which connects the fingers to the textual content on the dial and avoids including one other colour to the dial.
Though I actually just like the hand form and the symmetry (and visible subtlety) of the hand colours, I’m somewhat stunned that the 60-minute register is chromatically linked to the 24-hour indicator. It is not uncommon apply to hyperlink capabilities by colour in the case of chronograph handsets. On the Nezumi Tonnerre that conference is shelved in favor of pure aesthetics. It truthfully doesn’t trouble me (and I can recommend no neater various route), however I assumed I’d point out it in case anybody else recognized one thing “odd” about the way in which the colours are organized and was struggling to place their finger on it. To summarise, this watch has six fingers in a complete of 4 colours. For a 38mm chronograph that seems like so much. On the wrist, nevertheless, it appears lovely.
A shocking growth
This watch is a shocking growth. 40mm is small by chronograph requirements. Nezumi’s predilection for mecaquartz actions means the model’s watches have at all times been slim. Maybe most individuals (this author included) would have put cash on the following step for Nezumi being a hand-wound mechanical chronograph at both 40 or 42mm in diameter. Dialing down the diameter was not one thing I heard a lot name for. I subsequently should applaud Nezumi for being a frontrunner. As a lot as manufacturers like Rolex annoy us for his or her resistance to suggestions, I at all times respect manufacturers which have (and unwaveringly execute) their imaginative and prescient of progress and model development. This can be a actually neat growth for the model and a pleasant, unexpectedly welcome mannequin to the lineup.
And whereas Nezumi fashions all sort of “look the identical”, I’ve seen (after evaluating my seven fashions facet by facet) that little or no element sharing takes place. So let’s check out the Tonnerre: clearly, its case dimension is exclusive, so not a lot is absolutely sharable (besides the hour and minute fingers from the Loews, that are a lot better suited to the narrower dial of the Tonnerre). Apparently, nevertheless, the set-up of this watch is a mix of all of the issues that got here earlier than.
The Tonnerre has the hour markers, lume pips, hour and minute fingers, and bezel of the Loews. It has the triple-register dial, pronounced pump pushers, and fully brushed end of the Corbeau (and most Voitures). It has a completely distinctive sub-dial/chronograph handset, telemeter scale, glass profile, and crown. As soon as once more, David Campo, founding father of the Stockholm-based studio has succeeded in creating one thing intrinsically on model, and but by some means solely distinct from its earlier merchandise.
And what’s higher?
Name me loopy, however I swear to goodness that the straps on Nezumi watches (all 20mm) are getting higher with each launch. The strap feels mushy and supple out of the packaging is absolutely comfy. They odor nice, are clearly well-finished, and look a lot richer than the shinier straps launched on the sooner fashions. Nezumi says all straps are vegetable-tanned: this can be true, however not all vegetable tanning is created equal and these straps really feel like they’ve been very effectively tanned. This black one on the Tonnare smells like an old-school shoe store and, I have to admit, though I get so much of delight out of flipping my Nezumi watches on all types of straps, this one is staying put.
The field is new…
The packaging (first seen on the RUF particular version Voiture) is wonderful. There are three issues to notice about this packaging. One in every of them is par for the course in the case of Nezumi containers however the different two are completely novel for the model. Firstly, the identical graphically spectacular type stays. These seventies’ type sketches of the watches and the usage of the watch’s main accent colour for the containers is a very nice contact.
I’ve a set of 5 Nezumi containers (for the Voiture, the Loews, the Corbeau, the Baleine, and now the Tonnare) standing on my shelf in my workplace. They give the impression of being superior lined up subsequent to at least one one other. This can be a approach so as to add “good worth”, as I name it. Cardboard containers are low-cost, however by spending somewhat little bit of money and time on their design, you will have one thing that could be a pleasure to carry onto. Working example: I really feel extra inclined to maintain and show these containers than I do my Omega, Seiko, or Rolex containers.
Secondly, the Tonnerre is the primary core assortment Nezumi watch to be delivered in a sq. relatively than an oblong field. Previously, the cardboard field has been it. It has been the whole lot. Now, the colourful cardboard sheath incorporates a correct (or extra conventional) watch field at the least. Typically, I don’t want nor take care of this type of field, however I used to be amazed to see it’s a custom-made effort, with a debossed brand on a “darkish mink” (colour) mottled floor. The inside is color-matched and mushy and velvety, offering the watch with greater than ample safety throughout transportation.
What’s that scent you’re carrying?
Thirdly (and actually noticeably), the Tonnerre field smells nice. This may look like an odd/foolish factor to say, however I get so many (learn too many) pungent watches from careless microbrands that don’t appear to know that first impressions rely. And I’m not speaking about watches which have carried out the rounds and are available to me final, laden with grime and wrist cheese. No, I’m speaking about watches and watch containers proper off the manufacturing line that stink to excessive heaven of chemical substances and glue and goodness is aware of what. It’s unequivocally gross when I’ve to air out a package deal for a number of days earlier than I may even peek inside. And that is me speaking. After 23 years of whiskey ingesting, my sense of odor is about as delicate as that of a rock on the backside of the ocean.
The little issues add up
Nezumi’s mecaquartz chronographs are inclined to retail across the €400 mark. That’s, in my view, the candy spot for an excellent mecaquartz-powered product. If you step up that value by one or 200 you’ll begin to run into some fairly stiff mechanical competitors (as we mentioned not too long ago in my article masking the spectacular however pricier SYE MOT1ON). The Tonnerre builds on Nezumi’s robust foundations on this realm and delivers in all of the areas you’d count on it to, following on from the actual successes of the Voiture and Corbeau fashions. Throw into the equation that this mannequin is assembled in Germany and you’ve got a really fascinating package deal certainly…
Nonetheless, this mannequin is known as a successor to the Loews due to its fastened, non-functional bezel. I believe it bests its dressier forerunner in each class and will probably be spending much more time on my wrist because of this. That’s come at a very good time, because the blue-dialed Loews tends emigrate from my watch field to my girlfriend’s all through the summer season months, so I’m glad that I’ve received a light-weight, bright-dialed substitute to name on at any time when I would like it. Worth might be 3950 SEK (together with VAT) and 3160 SEK for orders positioned exterior of the EU). Be taught extra about Nezumi and the model new Tonnerre mannequin on the model’s official website.